\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®

October 6, 2010

4 October. Fashion shows Leonard and Zucca and presentation of Paule Ka.

This fashion week I'd say is full of surprises. Well, like every fashion week in Paris. 2 big Pavilions were build specially for this season in Pont Alexander III and in Tuileries - Espace Ephémère (Ephemeral Space). I had strong feeling all fashion week that I was watching kind of battle at the same space between greatest of the greatest. So many different colors, lights, music, presentation and meaning of collection which transforms in different images.
It was already 3d show for me at the same Pavilion in Pont Alexander III. After Guy Lariche and Barbara Bui I came to see new collection of Leonard – the most floral and colorful summer collection for the next season.
What colors and flowers we can add to spring and summer? Probably just more flowers and colors. For Veronique Leroy and Daniel Tribouillard collection of new flowers means freedom and lightness. Probably that's why every dress has it's own female name, like Marisa, Manuela, Clara or Merry, like every gorgeous flower. How wonderful to own the dress with it's own name. Name means attention to any tiny detail and tiny line of petal of flower.
This attention comes from the history of Leonard. In 1960, Daniel Tribouillard introduces the first "fully-fashioned", like he called them, pullovers with detailed print designs and employs a unique new printing process which receives an international patent. In 1968, Daniel Tribouillard decides to create for LEONARD his first collection of silk jersey garments. Now Veronique Leroy keeps the same patterns.
New collection is all about flagship silhouettes of loose-fitting casual gowns, with their graceful necklines, are shaped in elegant blue and pink floral or Coptic printed fabrics tinged with a vibrant turquoise. Indian pink, light purple and shiny yellow, softed by deep navy blue, on A-line sleeveless dresses and skirts with small jackets made of light. I'd say this collection made of sun - it's all about colors, ornaments, flowers and retro lines. An absolute must, white is blooming with strength in seaside looks, where overcoats, mini shirts and ponchos come in a cosy terrycloth and a refined cotton waffle.
New collection is shiny day where no rain, no desert – no dusty yellow colors, just sunny day. Silk, leather and suede are sumptuously worked to created stylish patterns adored with embroidered flowers and gilded sequins, freely played with transparence of silk, created new idea of free skying on cloud woman. She's no more then real illusion, THE inspiration, THE Muse.






















From beautiful blooming garden of Leonard I went to the island with waterfalls, birds and forest spirits. What do we feel when we create forest's spirits or spirits what protect animals, insects, fishes, birds? Creativity and freedom - that's probably general inspiration of Akira Onozuka – Japanese fashion designer and founder of Zucca. That time – is dancing tango spirits on the waterfalls like he told me after the show. I asked him: why dancing tango? He said that only tango has such strength in motion for the freedom, which comparable only with strength of nature – waterfalls and wind.
During the conversation I understood that Akira has special relationship of trust to unforeseen moment. All his creations like traditional Japanese Tanka. Short and strong poem where feelings are so pressed and strong that they from matters transforms into physical objects – that is about collections of Akira Onozuka.
His work, known for combining functionality with modern design. Standouts from Akira Onozuka’s delightful ode to the pleat included black sequined sweater dresses over long sheer pleated bases and beige chiffon flapper-style dresses, some layered over shimmering. New collection is no casual elegance – is elegance of night or water. Akira Onozuka is well known for his innovation, utilizing simple casual wear designs, but adding to them a series of edgy additions that have made the brand popular. His most recent collections have ventured into the realm of the modern, flared fashion. New collection is delightful ode to the pleat, hinted subtly at legionnaires and the late couturier's fascination.
And at the end of the show in absolute dark walls of runway turned in waterfalls and dancing tango in the dark silhouettes flew away like birds...
















It brought me back to my lovely weekend. Of course during fashion week you can't spend other time then walking around different exhibitions, like Tranoi or Brits in Paris, different presentations. Almost all boutiques on rue Saint Honore were open, champagne for friends and gusts. Paris generously were welcoming all fashion world.
I was visiting Tranoi and Brits in Paris and I was quiet surprised by creations of young designers, great English potential.
I popped to the presentation of new collection of Paule Ka. Serge Cajfinger founded a fashion boutique in Lille (in the north of France) with his mother and aunt Paule. As an admirer of Jacky Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly, Serge Cajfinger is creating a very elegant style for a bubbly woman with allure.
His collections are, above all, timeless. Cajfinger's concept is to take a certain image of Parisian chic and develop it in his clothes. Not only is the label successful internationally, it has also been talked about in France ever since the presidential candidate (Segolène Royal) wore it during her campaign.
Over the seasons, Paule Ka has succeeded thanks to its clean, modern collections. Simplicity, clean cuts -- the clothes are all about elegance. The label's creator, Serge Cajfinger, has just launched a line of bags designed along the same lines.
I noticed that several past collections Serge Cajfinger shakes the history and give us modern style of different epochs. Last collection is all echos of XVIII century. New collection with all it's chic and glamor gave me impression of Rome Empire.
Modern woman by Serge Cajfinger is elegant warrior or senator who like great gladiator's shows.














October 3, 2010

30 September. Barbara Bui show, presentation of Hiroko Koshino and wonderful weekend.

30 September. Barbara Bui fashion show and Presentation of Hiroko Koshino.

Beginning of fashion week still full of surprises. Barbara Bui fashion show – the new collection one of my favorite designers. The collection for radiant woman full of energy and light: jumpsuits, khaki shirts, silky cargo pants, and silk dresses, blouses, and natural linen shifts and tiny shorts. Collection was very strong elegant and well casting to the world of reporter simple working woman. Half-covered half-uncovered by python skin on glam-rock young lady.
Invasion of sex appeal and a brooding aesthetic that Bui offers to the adventurous women. From beige, knee-high gladiators to black booties, it is truly a shoe lover's dream. Following in the vein of her coats from Fall—and the current trends—Bui also showed leather outerwear pieced with panels of snake skin and perforated suede. With shades of both biker and aviator, these also dovetailed with the chic and nomadic foreign correspondent she imagined.
Barbara Bui described her new collection in very simple way to me “JUST LUXE”. She said everything should be very simple and warm, like secure place for adventures woman. That's why she mixed crocodile skin and gold with dusty canvas. This is the paradox of being adventures and having safe place “easy like Sunday morning”. Creating pieces for the sophisticated and confident woman Barbara goes not to the image of the modern woman but to her real nature, like herself.
















After having nice talk with Barbara at backstage I popped to the presentation of new and absolutely unknown in Paris Japanese fashion designer and artist Hiroko Koshino in Cite de l'architecture. She created even a space for her guests. I understood why she didn't want to make fashion show – she decided to bring her guests trough labyrinths of colors , spaces, fabrics at first before to show what the fashion creation could be like. Well, it's Japanese creations – very colorful and statistic. Koshino's clothes explore the tension between Western influences and Japanese values.
“I love Japan and have been attracted to traditional Japanese culture. I'm trying to express oriental sensitivities in a modern, Western framework. What I think, what I feel, my lifestyle - these are the starting points for my designs. They give me confidence in and a sense of identity with my creations.” Indeed Hiroko met her honorable guests in traditional blue kimono painted herself .
Well there were Japanese ambassador and of course Kenzo Tokada – the great Japanese designer who now devoted himself to the paintings and personages. I've been at his exhibition this summer in gallery of another great fashion designer Pierre Cardin – he told me that he feels like every emotion eventually turns into color.
Indeed like in creations of Hiroko Koshino.
The evening was splendid. All guests were surrounded of great and sophisticated care of Japanese team who were supporting the presentation. Well, wonderful end of the fashion day...

















1 October. Lie Sang Bong fashion show.

Having a little rest during the fashion week I decided eventually to see the Lie Sang Bong fashion show in Hotel Westin on rue Castiglione. And it was surprisingly good. Inspired by the movie “Santa Sangre” and images of the wings symbolize the idea of freedom and dove pure love.
He focused his attention to the strong geometric forms. And More and more his pieces became like a paintings which at the end was like typical book illustrations on the girls-pages.
Personally me I was completely in love with little white dress made by “wings” of dragonfly. So amazing and beautiful fabric – what brings you into imaginative world of fairy or angels being where everything is so pure in any breath...













2 October. Presentation of “The Original Douwdouw” in “Old Paris”.

One of my winner in Paris fashion Academy 2009 Dutch fashion designer Therese Schreinemachers-Wieske originally presented her brand “The Original Douwdouw” and new collection luxury shower caps at little restaurant “Old Paris” on Cite. After successful presentation in Cannes “No Drama in the Shower” she decided to make another presentation – Little Jazz concert and show in atmosphere of American Thirties. So lovely and so sweet evening with best Dutch “Sinatra” singer, dancing elegant models brought all guests back to the sources of fashion – time when all big names were created like Chanel, Dior, Cerutti etc – what we call “capital” of fashion today.
I was no able to attend all the events and shows like missed and very exclusive carnival organized by Vogue magazine, some presentation and the best has to come – Pret-a-porter collection of Chanel, Leonard, Zucca, Ellie Saab. Stay fashionably tuned for more :-))))).