\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: Eleonora de Gray
Showing posts with label Eleonora de Gray. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eleonora de Gray. Show all posts

July 14, 2020

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 1

Milan Digital Fashion Week 2020 Day 1. Fascinating digital experience reports by RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®. When you say “digital” you imagine moving pictures, moving videos. Add here the word “Happening” in the sense of Andy Warhol. Digital platform created by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana – Fashion Federation in Italy – that’s what it is.

This is not an online magazine with articles and youtube videos. This is where happening is happening now with no replays. Each and every media who got invited to cover this fashion week has access to this “happening” digital experience.

Milano Digital Fashion Week commences today with a calendar of Spring-Summer 2021 Mens and mens and womens pre-collection fashion shows. Through this landmark digital platform,
42 brands and 21 new Italian and international names will showcase their latest styles, while seven thematic rooms will showcase inspiring editorial content selected by nine curators.

Milano Digital Fashion Week 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Milano Digital Fashion Week 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Carlo Capasa, Chairman of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana:

“For the first time in its history, CNMI is experimenting with a highly-innovative formula, through a live, digital platform that represents a new form of storytelling for the Italian fashion industry.

Milan Digital Fashion Week is a dynamic response to the complexity of today. It’s an ultra-inspiring tool, designed to support, rather than replace, the physical fashion calendar, which will resume in September. A landmark antidote to an age marked by social distancing and travel restrictions imposed by the global health crisis. One that aims to provide a dynamic solution to the complexity of the present, a functional and creative tool amid these times and to support to the brands, when normalcy returns, in their physical fashion shows, which remains a crucial tool in conveying Made in Italy’s prowess and creative impact.

With the February launch of China We Are With You, a ground-breaking digital experience, CNMI rapidly created a digital bridge with the Chinese public, affording them the opportunity to experience the Milan catwalk shows, despite travel restrictions brought on by the unexpected evolution of the Covid-19 pandemic. Emboldened by this experience, we are presenting an ever-more revolutionary project that will open Milan Fashion Week up to a broader audience of non-professionals: a demographic composed of younger generations that consume fashion via images and to whom CNMI has assumed the role as Fashion Translator with the aim of conveying the creativity and culture that emanates from the Italian fashion world”.

This was a surprise!!!!!! So RUNWAY MAGAZINE will follow this digital experience, and publish additional information and reports of this day, and more fascinating moments.

The most remarkable shows of the day:

Prada Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week

Prada Sopring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Prada Sopring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2021 (Resort 2021) Milan Digital Fashion Week

Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2021 Resort Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alberta Ferretti Spring Summer 2021 Resort Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Vivetta Resort 2021 Cruise Milan Digital Fashion Week

Vivetta Resort 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Vivetta Resort 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 (Resort 2021) Milan Digital Fashion Week

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 Men Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Spring Summer 2021 Men Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Philipp Plein Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week

Philipp Plein Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Philipp Plein Spring Summer 2021 Milan Digital Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Haute Couture Digital Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Fashion Week

Best of Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital Fashion Week - Paris Fashion Report by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.
Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Digital – Day 1. It was quiet a challenge today for the fashion houses, Federation and for the spectators to follow. But of course we all witnessed several amazing and very creative surprises.
READ MORE about it day by day on www.RUNWAYMAGAZINES.com
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 1
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 2
HAUTE COUTURE FALL-WINTER 2020-2021 DAY 3

Best looks:

Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Aganovich Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2019-2020 for Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexandre Vauthier Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Antonio Grimaldi Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
FENDI ANIMA MUNDI - Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guo Pei Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Marguela Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maurizio Galante Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Avatar - Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ronald van der Kemp Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ulyana Sergeenko Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

April 28, 2020

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Article by Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE Eleonora de Gray. Read Full version of the article HERE.

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask
Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Are there standards for production of protective face masks?


Yes, there are standards, and it is very important to follow them. The standards are very strict, so the tiny virus can’t go trough. That is important to understand and specially when we all start to make masks ourselves. And it explains why 1 layer of cotton mask – doesn’t do anything, doesn’t serve to anything, and basically only give false feeling of protection. Let’s start with description of the materials from which surgical masks and N95 made of:

Surgical masks are made from “melt-blown, non-woven fabric”. They have a 3-layer structure comprising materials like:
Waterproof non-woven layer (front)
Microfiber melt-blown non-woven fabric as filter (middle) – VERY IMPORTANT
Ordinary non-woven fabric (back)


“Melt-blown” fabrics are not the woven or knitted structures in, like t-shirts and jeans for example, they are more like paper-mache. The complex layering and overlapping of these thin plastic filaments creates a thicket-like maze that can trap the airborne particles. The thin plastic filaments in disposable protective face masks are a polymer called polypropylene. Polypropylene has two great properties for repelling viruses: it is negatively charged, and it is water-repellent. Now, viruses need water to remain viable, and are also negatively charged. And…. negative repels negative. Negatively-charged polypropylene molecule will repel the negatively-charged virus, and because polypropylene also repels water, the virus is denied the moisture it needs to be viable. Ta-da!!!

Three separate types of polypropylene negatively-charged fabrics in the surgical face mask: a breathable type for next to mouth, a microfiber filtering type in the middle (filter), and a barrier type on the side facing the world.



3 layers surgical face mask
3 layers surgical face mask

N95 medical mask is almost the same as surgical mask but has more layers and fit tightly to the face. But the layers and principals are the same. Polyester also repels water, and is also negatively charged – just not as negative as polypropylene. That is why 1 layer of cotton, which has huge holes in relation to the size of virus, is useless. This kind of mask simply let virus go trough the cotton without any problem, as there’s no mask at all.

And now for the tricky part – the fabrics. There are all kinds of different fabrics, knits, cottons, polyesters, microfibers. What to choose? There are 2 organizations I know who provided all manufacturers and fashion designers with requirements of the fabrics for the masks for hospitals and for public. In USA all standards certified by The Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In France all standards certified by Association Française de Normalisation (AFNOR). Today they have million downloads from all over Europe standards guides to manufacturers and generally to everyone. Both these associations are on the same page.

AFNOR offers fabric guide to all public, which describes the quality of many fabrics which we can find and use. Do not hesitate – USE IT, CONSIDER IT AS ULTIMATE GUIDE !!! Quality of every fabric is described according to how airborne particles (virus included) can go trough or not, what fabric can be used as a barrier or filter. Today French government engaged several textile manufactures to produce protective masks for public according to AFNOR guide.

So let’s summer up and go according to AFNOR guide. The protective mask we can produce ourselves should contain several layers. Cotton can be used for front and back. And the most important middle layer is….

Microfiber Non-Woven Fabric as filter in face mask is THE SECRET WEAPON AGAINST VIRUS.


How to make Protective Mask Yourself


In another words the protective mask’s secret weapon lies in the middle layer. We can find this fabric in any supermarket. These fabrics we use for the napkins, for cleaning window and glasses “non-woven cloth”. It is very important to know that most air filtration are made of non-woven microfibers. Non-woven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, for example, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Why we use this microfiber non-woven fabrics for cleaning? Simply because microfiber textiles designed for cleaning on a microscopic scale. Why? Because they negatively-charged, and therefore this fabric keeps all dust and microbes on them. According to tests using microfiber materials to clean a surface leads to reducing the number of bacteria by 99%, whereas a conventional cleaning material reduces this number only by 33%.

So when it comes to the protective mask it is a vital importance to use this microfiber non-woven fabric as a filter. The one we can buy on the supermarkets for cleaning is close enough to the microfiber fabric used for medical masks. Another trick worth mentioning. As I already mentioned this microfiber fabric is negatively-charged, the cotton on another hand is positively-charged, as it made with natural materials.

Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
And guess what happens when negatively-charged and positively-charged materials are interacting with each other when they put together in the mask? They are creating a electromagnetic field, which is for certain stops virus for getting to you. The virus particles glues to the microfiber filter and stays there. This is the secret of the filter.

So to simplify the protective face mask you are going to make yourself should have 3 layers. 2 cotton layers and in the middle as filter microfiber non-woven fabric.

How to make protective face mask yourself


If you choose thin microfiber non-woven material like table napkin for example, the mask can’t be washed and can’t be reused. And another if you can’t find non-woven microfiber material buy woven microfiber material. It won’t be that effective, but it’ll still be protective, as this material will still be negatively-charged and will create electromagnetic field when interacting with cotton. Also don’t buy non-woven materials where are some products in them, or made of some glass particles like many bags for vacuum cleaners. The best choice would be fabrics for cleaning windows. Fleece (it’s also non-woven polyester) will do too BUT is much less effective, as it not that strong, so negative field won’t be that powerful, and as a result electromagnetic field will be not that strong.

Let’s say non-woven microfiber cloth as filter will give 80-90% of protection, woven microfiber cloth will give 70% of protection, fleece will give 60% of protection.

For more better performance and more sewing experience I give couple of images from AFNOR.

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

March 8, 2020

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.

Despite of all complications, cancelled shows and presentations, this Paris Fashion Week had some spectacular events and presentations for the next Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. Let’s check the ones we enjoyed the most.

Delvaux

One of the most fabulous event this season was a presentation of Delvaux 1829, oldest fine leather luxury goods house from Belgium. The house welcomed many guests this season. The guest of honor was a movie star Isabelle Huppert, the French star, winner of numerous Cesars and Oscar for Best Actress. 

Warm welcome during countless hours were very much appreciated by the guests. Another absolutely collection right away find its admirers right away.


Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week
Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week
Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God

Another very special presentation took the place this season – a collection for men and women from Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the oldest finest sartorial houses and Fear of God, a young brand from Los Angeles. Exceptional collection deserved an exceptional look from many special guests, like artistic director of Louis Vuitton fashion house Nicolas Ghesquiere, who also came to admire and greet the designers Alessandro Sartori and Jerry Lorenzo.


From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Yeezy by Kanye West

Kim Kardashian and Kanye West brought to Paris love to KFC, first concert of Sunday Service (gospel performance), and the show of Yeezy, a street wear line. They came 2 weeks in advance and amused Paris by ordering chicken wings in KFC on Strasbourg St Denis on their way to satisfy their shopping needs with Jean Paul Gaultier and Balmain.

Kanye West for the first time brought his Sunday Service to Europe. He started with Paris, he performed the gospels just day before the presentation of the his collection. It was quiet special event, which was not at all appreciated by fashion press for many reason. It might take more than chicken wings, praising God and quiet few doubloons to conquer Paris.


Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Madonna Madam X Mae

Madonna followed Kim Kardashian and Kanye West. She started her world “Madame X Tour” from Paris in Grand Rex. And at the same time she opened pop-up store on Filles du Calvaire (Marais) to show her collection March 4th. Available in this pop-up store exclusive items created by painter and stylist Mae with the colors of Madonna’s “Madame X Tour”. Black, red, white t-shirts or hoodies, customized hats, vinyls, pictures numbered by the artist and shot by Ricardo Gomes, with camouflage patterns, reflecting Madonna herself and her intimate world tour. Exclusive items in limited edition only available at this pop-up store.

A charity sale planned on Thursday March 12 for the foundation created by Madonna, Raising Malawi. Madonna will be present at this event.

Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli

And of course private presentation at the house of Schiaparelli on Place Vendome was appreciated the most. It is not that long ago this Haute Couture fashion house with great and very artistic history started the line of Ready-to-Wear. Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli fabulously “translated” codes of the house into surrealistic pieces and accessories. We noted on instagram special guests who visited Schiaparelli fashion house during this presentation day played with the glasses like children and tried them on.

Visiting the workshop, checking the new designs, sketches, discussing history, color choices and fabrics, and champagne of course made this private visit a delight during this fashion week.


Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris
Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Marie-Antoinette style became more and more popular. Quietly this style entered into the market. It all started from this…

Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006
Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006
Fancy mistake on the movie setting changed it all. In 2006 Sofia Coppola decided to keep this fancy few seconds in the movie, which changed fashion for the next 20 years.

Over the years designers tried to exercise their creativity and produce all kinds of shoes, and specially snickers.

Marie Antoinette style sneakers
Marie Antoinette style sneakers
This fancy style never left the scene because it is always create the dream and the wonder. Some fashion designers tried to push it really hard.

Finally Thom Browne, great tailor from New York, with long history with Ermenegildo Zegna, reached the absolute in menswear and fine tailored suits and gone wild. He decided to go for the fancy extraordinary suits for men and women, and he is the one who created the scandal in Paris in July 2019.

He showed in Paris fine tailors for the football players (or something) in the style of Marie Antoinette – Spring Summer 2020 season. A year later for the Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season Jeremy Scott, great imitator, and artistic designer of Moschino, decided to go even further, and to make this Marie Antoinette style ultimately popular. He showed spectacular collection in Milan, and we all hope that “Marie Antoinette” classy punch into the face of fashion will work very well and became a new trend.

And here are some thoughts….

© Creative work of RUNWAY MAGAZINE / Eleonora de Gray – All rights reserved.

Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
So get your sneakers ready to go…. and don’t forget the bows.

Postscript. After publication of this article we saw little presentation of shows of Gherardo Felloni, the artistic director of the French brand Roger Vivier. He decided to show his new collection of extravagant shoes and line of jewelry by 2 models dressed in Marie Antoinette style with heads of cats in boudoir type of situation.

Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

And again sneakers must go on…