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October 2, 2010

29 September. Fashion week. Devastee, Pierre Cardin and Guy Laroche fashion shows.

Fashion week in Paris heats up for fall. This season all catwalks are given to young fashion Asian designers. I see in official scheduler 12 of them. All are exiting different and extremely creative, bringing something to Paris what we haven't see for a long time.
I made a random choice of the Asian fashion designers what I'd like to see this season – known and absolutely new names. I like differences. I made my choice by my way of seeing elegance, colors and shapes. Of course there's always black white and red, and there's also the classic shapes of starlets, sexy secretary of fifties.
My first fashion show this season was the first show of little mark Devastee. Two French designers Ophelie Klere and Francois Alary, decided to go to Japan in their creations – push out the daisies in black and white movie tape of fashion. Theme of black and white movies comes in chic of peasants. Black and white floral print is an interesting twist on the classic spring look - definitely a departure from the bold boring colors.
“The gates were opened, the hinges were singing their loneliness” - that's the main theme of the collection. Floral sad Pierrot, who has nothing to do with Commedia dell Arte. An approach of could, and I felt like my heart is slowing down, my blood is freezing in this New Ice Age. Could summer of 2011 – an unusual combination of economic forces brought us together this morning, and don't let us to be lonely and don't freeze to death.







From this freezing world I came directly to colorful summer collection of Pierre Cardin. Pierre Cardin, the pioneer of Space Age fashion back in the 1960s, re-launched his catwalk career after a 10-year absence, at the Paris prêt-à-porter season. The 88-year-old designer proved he can still boldly go into the future, with a spring/summer 2011 collection which featured his 'n' hers, astronaut-style bodysuits in hot pink, rubber jewellery, UFO-bubble-hats, neon-bright, architectural mini-dresses and cyber-look crinolines in silk brocade. Still glorious, still talented, still surprising.
This is one of the amazing shows this fashion week for me. This show of 60th anniversary of fashion house. The symbol of great class and experiment and elegance Pierre Cardin told in his interview that he would never hand over his label to a younger designer, explaining that, "No, because I have five people sketching for me who are very young. And I think the young designers of today are less avant-garde than I am. I'm still in good shape, I work every day."
Cardin designed the collection to represent a four-season, and give us a tour of his own fashion galaxy. The man who made his mark on the 20th century with far-reaching, futuristic designs, once worn by The Beatles and the Rolling Stones, reclaimed his auditorium in order to prove his "name" is still a viable force in the 21st century: something already demonstrated by the fact Lady Gaga recently wore one of his metallic, chain-mail creations.
The original fashion Trekkie, Pierre Cardin, began the show with his and her futuristic jumpsuits in bright fuchsia, cobalt blue, metallic and brown. Next, came little, mini cocktail dresses in futuristic and avant-garde colors. It reminds me spirit of avant-garde and futuristic painters, architectonic designers and poets. In his collections was everything in great collaboration – geometric forms and poetic elegance mixed in styles of 20th and 50th. Casual and cocktail dresses, futuristic rain coats and bridal gowns showed great specter of Pierre Cardin vision and creativity in mixture of different styles epochs, profound light trough of 100 years of our history, culture, dreams about universe and still being under sign “down to Earth”.
Personally I adore his hats and futuristic silhouettes what came from classy fifties, which gives amazing elegance of creative and modern woman.





































After Pierre Cardin I was heading to Guy Laroche fashion show. Different world – warm, soft made by muted colors made me feel.... well like real French lady type of Catherine Deneuve and almost saying something like “lamour toujours”. Rephrase: born to be blond or not to be – there's no matter, Marcel Marongiu, the designer of Guy Laroche, will make you feel like real blond.
The military collection of Marcel Marongiu’s was inspired by strength of modern woman who likes her independence and in the same time soft and unresisting attraction. Classy French blond with pistol who can ones and for all damage poor men hearts.
Simple style and yet sophisticated look is presentation of feminine tailored basics – that is real French couture. The show itself seemed to almost mimic the changing of the seasons. The collection started out in cool neutrals – shades of taupe, dusty pink, gray, and navy dominated the first third of the show, a reminder of the slow transition from winter to spring. A pop of orange followed in a matching printed silk chiffon top and pants, as well as in a belted dress whose mini skirt had a daring slit up the side, marking the collection’s full embrace of spring in royal blue, lemon yellow, and crisp white. Floor-length yellow printed dresses and an equally ethereal purple printed chiffon mini dress are “Le Bouquet Finale” of the collection.
Indeed I enjoyed the show and soft vision for the business woman made with class and tailors attention.














September 14, 2010

11 September. Tea time at Bristol with Blumarine. The Tyranny of Beauty by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

I spent lovely tea time afternoon at Hotel Bristol at Private Fashion Show of Blumarine. It was not a pre-collection or official fashion show – it was little private event for Parisian friends of this brand before fashion show to remind about last Fall Winter 2010-2011 collection.
Blumarine – well known brand created by Anna Molinari proposes the new contemporary version of a strong and cosmopolitan look for women.
Pattern Remix - Sparkling Vibe - Street Deluxe, are the key words of the Blumarine lifestyle for women who possess a strong personality.
Sophisticated elegance and dramatic silhouettes is Anna Molinari’s world. It's world of seduction and charm, great vitality and a spontaneous sense of fun.
The blond designer created clothes considered true cult items, such as the t-shirts with logo in Swarovski crystals or the famous Blu-Vi, the small cardigan in cashmere with a mink collar, photographed on the greatest Hollywood stars: Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Eva Herzigova, Helena Christensen, Carla Bruni, Carré Otis and Monica Bellucci.
For Anna Molinari fashion is a world of modern, sexy and feminine woman.
I deeply enjoyed elegance of leopards, wild birds and pythons. Personally I liked very much long black dress – typical classic elegance. I guess I'm different kind of blond :-) but I so much appreciated the collection and sexy elegance.
All photos for this show are copyright protected. Photographer Laurent Benhamou.




























After tea time at Bristol I went to the opening of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac “The Tyranny of Beauty”.
Indeed like all shows of Castelbajac Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is a famous fashion designer. His creations, including a coat of teddy bears worn by pop star Madonna and by supermodel Helena Christensen in the film Prêt-à-Porter, are so famous by their extraordinary mix between classic and modern art, bringing in all his shows the kitsch in best of it - an imitation of art of recognized value and giving new sense by implanting lovable personages from animations, showing the real nature of romance and naive view of life. I certainly believe that it's not the bad thing to say “kitsch” - it's what it is. But the great meaning of it – the mixture of the old and modern values, matters, meanings of love and life, feelings of beauty, using reworks and appropriations to create kind of emotional world like Snow White syndrome in a series of Flanders tapestries. He always combines the images of famous art historical works with recognizable graphics from our contemporary culture in fashion and in art.







By the way everything what Castelbajac does – he calls it show “fashion show”, “art show” etc. After the installation on the Pont Neuf in Paris for Henri IV 400 years celebration (I went there with my friends and blogging about), Jean-Charles de Castelbajac now brings new show “The Tyranny of Beauty” at La B.A.N.K Gallery.
The tyranny in question is that of an insatiable need to please, of youth's domination, of a quest for immortality and of the denial of time past. Castelbajac adds trait, logo, sign or brand obliteration to classic master paintings. As if creams, capsules or other artifices could open up a path to eternal youth and stamp their radiant faces with indelible copyrights.
Recently I noticed while we were talking that Jean-Charles was checking me if I'm fitting well enough with his 3 busts of Marie Antoinette :-). He said "Apparently - yes" :-). Anyway I left exhibition with nostalgic feelings about Venues and romantic love story with Prince Charming, true love's first kiss and all courtesy of the romantic world.
The wonderful place to visit for real Princess. Exhibition will be open until 23 October 2010.
La B.A.N.K, 42, rue Volta, 75003, Paris.