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March 8, 2020

Best of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear

Best of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear. Paris fashion week despite of many complications showed some spectacular collections. Trend proposed by Paris came in color, for ones, and in geometrical shapes. Mondrian-ish looking shirts and pants are the “new black”.


Best looks in alphabetic order.

Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Oh, FYI, it is not a Hermes what all of us remember from 1990s – it’s new Balmain. Don’t ask…. Yes, please do! Read more about what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain here.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
This is Hermes collection for new Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. This collection is a tribute to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Read the special story here.

Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.


Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most original and worth seeing collections, newest trends of Paris Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season can be seen here.

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.

Despite of all complications, cancelled shows and presentations, this Paris Fashion Week had some spectacular events and presentations for the next Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. Let’s check the ones we enjoyed the most.

Delvaux

One of the most fabulous event this season was a presentation of Delvaux 1829, oldest fine leather luxury goods house from Belgium. The house welcomed many guests this season. The guest of honor was a movie star Isabelle Huppert, the French star, winner of numerous Cesars and Oscar for Best Actress. 

Warm welcome during countless hours were very much appreciated by the guests. Another absolutely collection right away find its admirers right away.


Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week
Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week
Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God

Another very special presentation took the place this season – a collection for men and women from Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the oldest finest sartorial houses and Fear of God, a young brand from Los Angeles. Exceptional collection deserved an exceptional look from many special guests, like artistic director of Louis Vuitton fashion house Nicolas Ghesquiere, who also came to admire and greet the designers Alessandro Sartori and Jerry Lorenzo.


From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Yeezy by Kanye West

Kim Kardashian and Kanye West brought to Paris love to KFC, first concert of Sunday Service (gospel performance), and the show of Yeezy, a street wear line. They came 2 weeks in advance and amused Paris by ordering chicken wings in KFC on Strasbourg St Denis on their way to satisfy their shopping needs with Jean Paul Gaultier and Balmain.

Kanye West for the first time brought his Sunday Service to Europe. He started with Paris, he performed the gospels just day before the presentation of the his collection. It was quiet special event, which was not at all appreciated by fashion press for many reason. It might take more than chicken wings, praising God and quiet few doubloons to conquer Paris.


Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Madonna Madam X Mae

Madonna followed Kim Kardashian and Kanye West. She started her world “Madame X Tour” from Paris in Grand Rex. And at the same time she opened pop-up store on Filles du Calvaire (Marais) to show her collection March 4th. Available in this pop-up store exclusive items created by painter and stylist Mae with the colors of Madonna’s “Madame X Tour”. Black, red, white t-shirts or hoodies, customized hats, vinyls, pictures numbered by the artist and shot by Ricardo Gomes, with camouflage patterns, reflecting Madonna herself and her intimate world tour. Exclusive items in limited edition only available at this pop-up store.

A charity sale planned on Thursday March 12 for the foundation created by Madonna, Raising Malawi. Madonna will be present at this event.

Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli

And of course private presentation at the house of Schiaparelli on Place Vendome was appreciated the most. It is not that long ago this Haute Couture fashion house with great and very artistic history started the line of Ready-to-Wear. Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli fabulously “translated” codes of the house into surrealistic pieces and accessories. We noted on instagram special guests who visited Schiaparelli fashion house during this presentation day played with the glasses like children and tried them on.

Visiting the workshop, checking the new designs, sketches, discussing history, color choices and fabrics, and champagne of course made this private visit a delight during this fashion week.


Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris
Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Marie-Antoinette style became more and more popular. Quietly this style entered into the market. It all started from this…

Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006
Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006
Fancy mistake on the movie setting changed it all. In 2006 Sofia Coppola decided to keep this fancy few seconds in the movie, which changed fashion for the next 20 years.

Over the years designers tried to exercise their creativity and produce all kinds of shoes, and specially snickers.

Marie Antoinette style sneakers
Marie Antoinette style sneakers
This fancy style never left the scene because it is always create the dream and the wonder. Some fashion designers tried to push it really hard.

Finally Thom Browne, great tailor from New York, with long history with Ermenegildo Zegna, reached the absolute in menswear and fine tailored suits and gone wild. He decided to go for the fancy extraordinary suits for men and women, and he is the one who created the scandal in Paris in July 2019.

He showed in Paris fine tailors for the football players (or something) in the style of Marie Antoinette – Spring Summer 2020 season. A year later for the Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season Jeremy Scott, great imitator, and artistic designer of Moschino, decided to go even further, and to make this Marie Antoinette style ultimately popular. He showed spectacular collection in Milan, and we all hope that “Marie Antoinette” classy punch into the face of fashion will work very well and became a new trend.

And here are some thoughts….

© Creative work of RUNWAY MAGAZINE / Eleonora de Gray – All rights reserved.

Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
So get your sneakers ready to go…. and don’t forget the bows.

Postscript. After publication of this article we saw little presentation of shows of Gherardo Felloni, the artistic director of the French brand Roger Vivier. He decided to show his new collection of extravagant shoes and line of jewelry by 2 models dressed in Marie Antoinette style with heads of cats in boudoir type of situation.

Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

And again sneakers must go on…

Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020

Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020
Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020



Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020. Balmain Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain, started 2d year of his “understanding” of fashion. It is known fact that he didn’t go to the fashion school, and basically has been chosen to become new creative director for many reasons, including his close connection to Kim Kardashian and her boyfriend Kanye West, but not by his talen and creative skills as a designer.

This question was asked by many media personalities and media, and Olivier Rousteing every time tried to prove or improve his skills. So he choose special way – reproduction, or simply copy. Apparently he spent hours in library with his iPhone, taking photos of old Vogue magazines with forgotten looks of great designers like Thierry Mugler, Karl Lagerfeld or Pierre Cardin.

So his first year in fashion started from season and collection for Spring Summer 2019, which had exact copy some Thierry Mugler looks. And it was well noted by Thierry Mugler himself, media, fashion experts, and also by bloggers.

Thierry Mugler posted on his personal instagram:
Balmain Spring Summer 2019 – Thierry Mugler copy. Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Probably we all didn’t understand something. That is basically how Olivier Rousteing started his fashion school of design. Next “inspiration” became Karl Lagerfeld. He showed Balmain Cruise 2020 collection in his style with some Mexican touches and rock-n-roll.

Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection

Next designer Olivier Rousteing studied and tried to reproduce was Pierre Cardin. Spring Summer 2020 Balmain collection was all in Pierre Cardin style, although no tribute or dedication was mentioned to the press or blogger or anywhere visible on the press-release, instead the press-release announced that the presented designs are unique, which never existed before.

It is indeed is a good compilation of Pierre Cardin innovations with its profusion of optical effects and circular motifs. Although no dedication was indicated in press-release of the collection. Instead Olivier Rousteing stated in his interviews that “I call Balmain the guilty pleasure, because it’s not a brand that follows trends. It creates its own codes, and for me, it’s important to remain true to yourself. Sometimes people like it, and sometimes they don’t, but I always say I’d rather be disliked for who I am than liked for who I’m not.”

Apparently copied looks of Thierry Mugler, or redesigned looks of Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre Cardin were also appropriated by the designer with pretension that these codes were also created by him. It is indeed someone likes copies, and someone doesn’t. 

Who Balmain wants to fool? Kim Kardashian, or his new First “Mum”, who recently adopted him?

Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
This Fall-Winter 2020-2021 took a hit on old looks from 1990s of Hermes fashion house. Although as it is 2d year of Olivier Rousteing, so he reconstructed them very well, and with the caution. He also added some Italian touches, changed a little design of the fabrics and added the embroideries. Crafty! With meaning not related to craftsmanship.

The theme of the collection dedicated to astrological signs and horses of course (Hermes was there), and specifically to Scorpion. And it says it all.


Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
And last but not least – a leather corset with formed breasts – invention of Jean Paul Gaultier for the Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture season, and of course reproduced in almost exact way by Olivier Rousteing for Fall-Winter 2020-2021.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
The worst is yet to come…. who’s going to be remastered / reproduced by Olivier Rousteing for next season? Who’d be the next great designer, who’s designs he’ll announce as his own? That is the question!