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May 21, 2022

Podcast Color Expertise

Podcast Color Expertise. Episodes about the history and values of the colors. Podcast recorded with help of the new Text-to-Speech technologies and artificial voice. Listen to the Articles by Guillaumette Duplaix, Color Specialist, Executive Director, Global Editor-at Large at RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

RUNWAY MAGAZINE PODCAST Color Expertise
RUNWAY MAGAZINE PODCAST Color Expertise









January 28, 2022

Haute Couture 2022 Fashion Week

Haute Couture 2022 Fashion Week. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 fashion week Top News Headlines

  • Thierry Mugler died night before Haute Couture fashion week.
  • Schiaparelli presented “flat” couture, or “Schip” show of reproduced looks of Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier, claiming that these looks are unique and invented by Daniel Roseberry, creative director. Images of “re-invented” famous looks of Pierre Cardin compared to the new looks of Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli flooded social media networks.
  • Schiaparelli presented its new collection to PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production.
  • Kanye West came to several fashion shows of menswear and Haute Couture with black pantyhose over head, as a bank robber from 1980s. That made huge laugh all over United States and pinned by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart. Apparently Kanye West wanted to match his ex-wife Kim Kardashian look, who was suppose to come for Haute Couture fashion week (cancelled at last moment). She appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021.
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE - Top News Headlines - Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Pharrell Williams
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE - Top News Headlines - Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Pharrell Williams

Scandal - Kanye West, Kim Kardashian at Paris Fashion Week 2022
Scandal - Kanye West, Kim Kardashian at Paris Fashion Week 2022

  • On the occasion of Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture, “On Aura Tout Vu” (“We’ve seen it all”) presented “Haute Couture” sex-toys and showed them at their show “Superheroes”. The brand is entitled to use “Haute Couture” term for its production, as this brand is accepted by Fédération française de la couture (French fashion federation) as Haute couture invited guest and member. Haute Couture brand presented sex-toys as “Haute Couture” accessories to the media and during their show. Federation of Haute Couture didn’t express their opinion, didn’t put any ban on this production and use the “Haute Couture” name for sex-toys. For the last couple of years Federation of Haute Couture accepted as invited guests to present at Haute Couture fashion week the designers who have no connection to production in France, or don’t comply even with one requirement, or don’t have any production at all.
  • Federation of Haute Couture accepted Ralph Rucci (American designer) as part of the official calendar of The Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, to present this season…. This designer never had production in France, he didn’t use any French atelier of métier d’art (ateliers of handmade crafts). In fact, this designer presented his old “collection” of drawings he did in 1990-2000s with marks 2022 and photos of his sketches with attached fabrics. The media received press-release and lookbook of drawings called “Ralph Rucci Spring Summer 2022 Haute Couture Collection”. NOTHING has been produced yet – not in France, not anywhere else. The brand invited media and buyers to contact for the appointment. The participation at Haute Couture fashion week has quite a high fee. How desperate Federation of Haute Couture could be to accept this?!!
  • Pharrell Williams appeared at the shows wearing a reproduction of extraordinarily rare Mughal spectacles “Halo of Light” or “Gate of Paradise” (XVII century spectacles, named by the owners Mughal Royals, India). Pharrell Williams, who became a new creative director of Tiffany, claimed that this is his original “custom-designed” glasses. Sotheby’s chairman Edward Gibbs told CNN that  “As far as we know, there are no others like them.” Production of exact copy, without mentioning the original, and presentation to public as  Tiffany’s new glasses created another international scandal.
Pharrell Williams reproduction for Tiffany & Co of Mughal spectacles - XVII century spectacles, India
Pharrell Williams reproduction for Tiffany & Co of Mughal spectacles - XVII century spectacles, India

  • Chanel announced a new CEO, and the first woman leader Leena Nair. The Haute Couture house announced that Leena Nair, the former Unilever human-resources chief, would assume the role of CEO in January 2022. She’s replacing Alain Wertheimer, Chanel’s co-owner. She was supposed to come to Paris and see the team, see the Chanel Haute Couture show, and meet the media. And to the very surprise of all, she cancelled her presence and didn’t appear at the show, she didn’t meet the designer or the media.
  • Chanel after giant controversy with the first edition of Chanel advent calendar 2021 issued in December 2021 ($825 price for the several stickers and freebies available with every purchase at Chanel + 1 perfume, 1 soap and 2 lipsticks) announced just day before Haute Couture fashion week that the prices for the Chanel bags increased to $10 000. It is practically double. This decision for unjustified prices right after pandemic, when economically everybody has weakened, brought another wave of negative public opinion, and will probably give backfire and another boycott from buyers of luxury goods.
Chanel advent calendar 2021 - $825 for 22 stickers and freebies
Chanel advent calendar 2021 - $825 for 22 stickers and freebies

  • Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2022 show started with Charlotte Casiraghi riding horse. Although this collection didn’t have any piece or look which is related to horse-riding. The collection was intended for a new CEO and presented the best pieces of Karl Lagerfeld redesigned by Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, for an occasion. Chanel has been pinned for attempting to become an equestrian brand, and a clumsy hit on Hermes fashion house.  Virginie Viard also decided to give a “black eye” to some models without special announcement. Apparently it was done simply to pay some special homage to battered women.
  • Unusually “quiet” and dull collection of Christian Dior in black, navy, gray, and brown also surprised the guests and big public. And also the same day Dior released a fabulous book about John Galliano from 1997-2007 with the designs of great designer. This is not just a different time of the Dior house. This is two different worlds – talent and banality. And it looked like two different forces in Dior house ripping it apart. Christian Dior belongs to LVMH luxury group.
  • LVMH luxury group announced Louis Vuitton fashion house is not defining itself solely as a fashion house, but as a true “cultural creation company”. The fashion house sells “desire” and “culture” rather than watches or dresses. Louis Vuitton, its flagship, is described as a “cultural brand with a global audience” which also reaches a very large clientele in generation Z. This is a big and quite important step as from this moment on fashion becomes a cultural attribute, which can and should be protected as a cultural heritage. 
  • Pierre Cardin,  a fashion house known in the 1960s for the futuristic fashion style, made its relaunch under the new direction of nephew of the designer Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin. Fabulous show took place at Le Bourget, and the runway was installed under the Space Rocket Ariane 5.
That was a rich fashion week by its news and difference announcements.

And on a personal note: “Fashion” dressed, or more likely ridiculously dressed people, who are hanging around the entrance to the fashion shows, more and more becoming public laughing stock. Add here when they interviewed – they are appallingly stupid, and have no idea about fashion industry, they are here to show themselves, like some sort of rotten “fashion leftover”.

Fashion can be an expression of personal feelings, a statement, and can be considered as an art… but not anymore. When it was started more than 40 years ago it made sense  – fashion became a concept, an attraction, much more than expression of a personal style. Vivienne Westwood is a very good example. Although today it is just ridiculous, and more and more fashion is associated with this ridiculously dressed crowd, less and less public have an interest in fashion. If fashion luxury brands are not intended to change it – the gap between luxury fashion brands and the public will be much larger than it is today, which will lead to massive financial losses.

Already today people don’t follow the fashion shows and new trends dictated by luxury brands, as it was before. Many people don’t even know the names of the luxury brands. As an example, Fendi Haute Couture show this season was watched live only by 4000 people all over the world, youtube and instagram put together. And the number of buyers may not even come to a couple of hundred. That is how little interest the public have today to the massive production of luxury goods and the luxury industry. Something to think about.

Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 Best of

This Paris Haute Couture fashion week was very rich by the events. The effect was like an earthquake. Shake it, shake it, baby, but not stir! It’s been a long time when everything became some sort of routine for the designers, media and buyers.

But apart from that what about the fashion and style? What actually designers showed for the Spring Summer 2022 season? And what actually can become a trendsetter?

Christian Dior showed the collection in black, navy, gray, and brown. Very simple looks, the “quiet fashion”, as Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, called it. The silhouettes are very simple and casual. See all looks of Dior Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli, as being said, showed a collection of the looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler, and Jean Paul Gaultier, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West and his new adventure and production. Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. See all looks of Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy - Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

Lebanese designer Georges Hobeika showed wonderful and very fresh looks. This Spring Summer collection included several very cute long and short cocktails dresses. What I personally like here is that collection is not attached to the one country codes. This dress I can easily see in New York, Paris, or Milan. And I can definitely wear one. See all looks of Georges Hobeika Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Georges Hobeika Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Chanel for this season finally made a beautiful come back to Karl Lagerfeld looks, this sparkle might light up Chanel once again. This collection has been very criticized by brand lovers for the quality, by experts for absence of the one line of the collection, by influencers and “watchdogs” of fashion for taking on Hermes market. “Black eye” given to some models (with make up of course) didn’t give any comments of public, as it was simply not understood. See all looks of Chanel Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Carla Bruni fabulously appeared for Didit Couture Spring Summer 2022 advertising campaign. Radiant and graceful, former First Lady of France, former model, lighten up the sky over Haute Couture fashion week this season. See all looks of Carla Bruni for Didit Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Carla Bruni for Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring Summer 2022
Carla Bruni for Didit Hediprasetyo Couture Spring Summer 2022

Valentino presented its Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection in the form of old fashion presentation/show under flag displayed on the Valentino’s building on Place Vendome, “Anatomy of Couture”. Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli brings the world close in a reimagined Salon de Couture: stripped of distraction, and singularly focused on his latest collection. An expression of physicality, a look into infinite shapes with the collection of Valentino “Anatomy of Couture”. I personally find this collection wonderful. Even the looks were not new, many of them are recreated by the designer from previous seasons, but garments were adapted for all shapes and ages. See all looks of Valentino Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 collection is another ode, another poesy. He has such recognizable style. Golden fluid shiluettes, and this time the accent made on the jewelry, giant, absolutely magnificent jewelry. See all looks of Stephane Rolland Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stephane Rolland Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. It was another fabulous show. Yes, Elie Saab is a Red Carpet designer. And the gowns he presents every season are created to praise femininity and grace. See all looks of Elie Saab Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. Jean Paul Gaultier collection this season presented by designer Glenn Martens from Y/Project. Glenn Martens is Creative Director – Diesel, and his own brand Y/Project. “This is a celebration of Gaultier. I’ve stayed close to the woman Jean Paul created in the past—pure diva goddess beauty,” – said Glenn Martens in his notes. He reinvented the iconic marinière with barely visible constructed lines in his own way. “Jean Master” tried to reach the iconic look of Gaultier by waiving the lines up and down. I personally find it like a great success. See all looks of Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Franck Sorbier for Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 created another poesy,  “Ode of Life”. Probably this is the first time Franck Soriber created something very joyful. See all looks of Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Franck Sorbier Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022. The story of this Fendi Haute Couture collection by Kim Jones is a story told by Fendi is a fantasy from past to the future. The historic codes of the city, its marble statues and aesthetic, are explored by creative director of Fendi Kim Jones. I personally find this collection “disoriented”, as if Kim Jones had so little interest to making it, he just used paints, like anybody else, on fluid fabrics, and patch couple of embroideries on the gowns. Collection was presented in France, so let’s give to Marianne, the female allegory of Liberty, a runway. See all looks of Fendi Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Fendi haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fendi haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022. For this Haute Couture collection Ziad Nakad took a woman as a jewel. The choice of models as his muses for this season he came to France, Australia, Georgia, United States, Germany, Netherlands, and Korea. He wanted to dress the women from around the world. This collection is his statement that beauty is universal. See all looks of Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ziad Nakad Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Pierre Cardin “Cosmocorps 3022” show was absolutely amazing finale for this so “disturbed” Haute Couture fashion week. This show was not just a tribute to the pioneer designer of “space” fashion but a magnificent relaunch of the brand, relaunch of the trend started in the 1960s. The Pierre Cardin show 2022 – Cosmocorps 3022 took place at Le Bourget Air and Space Museum, known to the world by its exposition of the plains, space rockets and the exposition of all important innovations and technologies related to space. Thousands of guests were invited to make the voyage from Paris to Le Le Bourget. We passed through the museum, accompanies by the robots, and following the lights, leading us to the Space Rocket Ariane 5, we came to the installed runway. See all looks of Pierre Cardin show 2022 – Cosmocorps 3022 HERE.

Pierre Cardin show 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022 Le Bourget by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Pierre Cardin show 2022 - Cosmocorps 3022 Le Bourget by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Well…. I love Happy endings. And that was it. Let’s also paraphrase “Pierre Cardin saved more than a day, he saved Haute Couture fashion week”. And we’ll continue Happily Ever After Haute Couture stories from Paris next season.

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

January 24, 2022

Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 – PornHub Follies or “Schiap show”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

This Haute Couture fashion week started with great sadness – Thierry Mugler left us. The King is dead…. And… Haute Couture fashion week started with Schiaparelli by Texan Daniel Roseberry.

PornHub Follies for Kanye West

Daniel Roseberry’s collection merged the showmanship of the PornHub Follies with the drama of sci-fi…. and looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin and Thierry Mugler, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West.

Old Parisian Haute Couture House Schiaparelli opened its doors and made garments to present to former rapper and PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production. Daniel Roseberry, drugging behind name of Else Schiaparelli (or Schiapareli with one “l”), already last season proposed his garments to strippers, drag queens for their shows (and not the most elegant ones).

Apparently Daniel Roseberry likes when they say “Ouch”… Although he didn’t introduced “Haute Couture” surreal sex-toys like another Parisian brand (“On Aura Tout Vu”, translated as “We’ve seen it all”) did this season. Schiaparelli is a Haute Couture House with the identity linked to surrealism. So sex-toys should be surreal (tip). Sex-toys were not introduced just yet. We’ll have to wait for the next season.

Kanye West in black pantyhose and Julia Fox at Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022
Kanye West in black pantyhose and Julia Fox at Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022

This season Daniel Roseberry got more than excited as known and renown PornHub Awards Creative director and PornHub Producer, former rapper Kanye West came to his show accompanied by “new flame”, new muse Julia Fox, known for her leading roles in erotic dramas and series, was testament to the brand’s heat.

Kanye West appeared at the Schiaparelli show during Paris Fashion Week with black pantyhose over head, like bank robbers from the 1980s. Kanye West got used to pantyhose, as he wore this “headwear” for different events like football games or glamorous evenings, according to the comments made by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart at the New Year show, which made millions of Americans laugh. 


Daniel Roseberry, as a “visionary” marketer, probably already know that pantyhose videos are skyrocketing on PurnHub. So with Kanye West is a win-win situation.

Talking about Kanye West in black pantyhose. There’s probably another explanation to this. He’s probably still desperately tries to match his ex-wife. Kim Kardashian appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021. There were no erotic meaning, but Kanye West took it in whole new level, so as Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022 Couture or “Schiap show“

Maybe for the public Schiaparelli show looked like “Haute Couture returns”… but from expert point of view – not so much. Let’s look closely. The gilding on the accessories is not gilding – it’s just a golden paint, no volume, looks “reinvented” or reproduced. Daniel Roseberry in his notes about the show, proudly published on the Schiaparelli web-site, said that the looks he didn’t even draw anything. Of course he didn’t have to – everything was already drawn by Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin. He just needed to look at the sketches and make some changes, add accessories, and Bum!.. 3-dimensional!   

Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. And it sounds like “Cheap”. Cheap show, yes indeed.

Suzy Menkes about Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 show
Suzy Menkes about Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 show


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

In pompous notes to the show Daniel Roseberry wrote: “What felt exciting was something more restrained. Suddenly colour seemed wrong to me. So did volume. All of the tricks that couture designers – including me! – used to communicate – grandeur and craftsmanship – felt hollow.”

Indeed this collection felt hollow, empty. After 2 years thinking about surreal, plunging into the archives of Elsa Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry came out only with nothing, so he came to “check” what’s good around.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Daniel Roseberry and Cone-bra of Jean Paul Gaultier

I already expressed my opinion about iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra created by Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna in 1990s. And it is not clear why Daniel Roseberry reinventing and appropriating this creation. Read more about it in the review about Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990s - iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990s - iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022
Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022

JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy – Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy – Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

I’m not convinced as I see echoes of Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin in this collection. And from the looks of it the volume is not profound – these are just scene costumes, and they can’t represent Parisian elegance. And they probably shouldn’t as they designed not just for Las Vegas but for Kanye West new production.

Pierre Cardin echoes in Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022
Pierre Cardin echoes in Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

Here are some other looks.

So this is all about this collection – fake and flat for PornoHub.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

See all looks Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

See all looks Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022

November 13, 2021

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit

2021 CFDA Fashion Awards ceremony – Celebrating Counterfeit. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021
Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Emily Blunt, Chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford, Dame Anna Wintour, Designer Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering - CFDA Award 2021
Emily Blunt, Chairman of the CFDA Tom Ford, Dame Anna Wintour, Designer Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering - CFDA Award 2021

CFDA Fashion Awards 2021 ceremony took place at the Pool + The Grill within the Seagram Building on Park Avenue. The fabulous evening was hosted by actress Emily Blunt.

Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award

This year CFDA honored counterfeit goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, making him the first designer without a fashion show, and the first designer who produced counterfeit goods, chased by FBI, to ever win the honor.

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021
Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Dapper Dan was tearing when he received the award this Wednesday November 10. He proudly told the story how he printed on fabrics in his atelier the logos of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi, how he picked the designs from sportswear companies, or Christian Dior Haute Couture designs for the famous jacket he made with Louis Vuitton printed logos to Olympic Runner Diane Lynn Dixon, or how he mixed Gucci and Louis Vuitton logos on the bomber jackets. Dapper Dan proudly told the story about how he “created” jackets, even total looks for drug-lords, rap or hip-hop singers.
Dapper Dan also told the story about how fashion brands filed massive lawsuit against him, he was chased by FBI, and finally they were able to close his atelier in Harlem, and strip him from all money he earned by production of illegal goods. Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, and specifically Fendi put the end to this illegal production. 
Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021
Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

Olympic Runner Diane Dixon - Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of CFDA Award 2021
Olympic Runner Diane Dixon - Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of CFDA Award 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021
Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

In 2017 CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault and CEO of Gucci Marco Bizzarri decided to invest several million dollars, and and relaunched Dapper Dan as a by-appointment studio for custom pieces. Dapper Dan himself was even starring in Gucci’s new men’s-tailoring ad campaign.
In another words CEO of Kering Luxury Group Francois-Henri Pinault released “Counterfeit Bacteria” on the world and started “Counterfeit Pandemic“, which spreads today as rapidly as coronavirus. Here and there I see “designers”, who present even in department stores their counterfeit production, some sort of hybrids.
I’m asking myself a question – is that some strange way of Kering to “outsmart” LVMH? Gucci belongs to the Group Kering, Luxury goods company. Louis Vuitton belongs to LVMH – another Luxury goods company. And back in the 90s Dapper Dan used mostly Louis Vuitton,  Gucci and Fendi logos, mixing and matching them up. It is known that Kering and LVMH for more than 50 years had a war for territory in the luxury market. So when in 2017 Gucci invested to re-opened an atelier in Harlem for Dapper Dan, invested to clean up his reputation, paid media (and specifically to one), made him sponsor of New York Fashion Week, there is a reason for that. Tailoring method, or as Dapper Dan calls it “designs”, which were used with Louis Vuitton logos today remade with the logos of Gucci. Is it another way, quiet pervert I might add, to take territory from LVMH? The perversity of it all, mind games if you like, would be this investment in Dapper Dan of François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering, with desire to “outsmart” Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and take the “territory” which is definitely outside of law, in the dark side, belonged to LVMH in the past. Although this mind game of Francois-Henri Pinault has a very dark outcome. He didn’t think about circumstances, how it’ll affect sociality, and what destructive results it could bring worldwide just 3 years after. Bringing Dapper Dan to the light side, paying the media to clean up his reputation, naming him “true genius”, made him sponsor of New York Fashion week, give him lifetime achievement award by CFDA in 2021 opened up a path to legitimize all illegal producers, counterfeit designers. And started “Counterfeit Pandemic”. 
In 2018 Vogue became promotion outlet for Dapper Dan, in 2019 Vogue invited as a guest of honor Dapper Dan to The Met Gala, invited stars to visit his atelier in Harlem. And in 2021 Pepsi who wanted to become a sponsor of New York Fashion Week Dapper Dan was imposed, so he can also be announced as a sponsor of New York Fashion Week. And the last – CFDA honored Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award in 2021.

Chairman of CFDA Tom Ford celebrates Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dapper Dan CFDA Award 2021
Chairman of CFDA Tom Ford celebrates Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dapper Dan CFDA Award 2021

Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri, A$AP Ferg, Susan Chokachi celebrate CFDA Award 2021 of Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan
Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri, A$AP Ferg, Susan Chokachi celebrate CFDA Award 2021 of Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan

The shadowy business of counterfeits has taken over the globe to become a $1.2 trillion industry. Despite extensive and expensive efforts by brands, by law enforcement, efforts of the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (“OECD”) and the European Union Intellectual Property Office (“EUIPO”), this shadowy business became the center of the attention during this New York Fashion Week, and the most known designer / tailor of counterfeit illegal goods Dapper Dan was honored by lifetime achievement award for his counterfeit illegal goods production in 90s from its organizer CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).
“We’re also incredibly pleased to see several talented names among the nominees for the first time. American fashion is experiencing a renewed energy, and the designers play a significant role in the future trajectory of our industry,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.
In parenthesis. Michael Kors at the beginning of 2021 proposed concept FENDACE, a collaboration between Fendi and Versace. Let’s say it is a very creative way against counterfeit pandemic. Fendi was the one who insisted in 1990s to put the end to counterfeit illegal activities of Dapper Dan, close his atelier, and strip him of all earnings.
Michael Kors didn’t approve the nomination of a counterfeit goods tailor Dapper Dan with lifetime achievement award, his sponsorship of New York Fashion Week. He predicted the “Counterfeit Pandemic” and decided to confront it in the most creative way – with the concept. Capri Holdings Limited, a multinational fashion holding company, founded and owned by American designer Michael Kors, since 2018 owns Versace – the most popular luxury brand, and the one being the most exposed to counterfeit.
Michael Kors proposed a concept to Donatella Versace and Fendi to create a mix-match collection and united their logos and styles. If public want to see Versace and Fendi logos in one luxury item, so let’s create it for them in one outfit and by these brands. This absolutely brilliant concept had a huge success during Milan Fashion Week this September. The collection Versace and Fendi got a name FENDACE. Donatella Versace leaded this project. Michael Kors even flew to Milan for the show.

Fendi Versace collaboration - Fendace - by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Fendi Versace collaboration - Fendace - by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Back to Celebration of counterfeit and illegal goods designer Dapper Dan with the Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award….
“This is an important moment in American fashion. There is much excitement about the return of New York City and New York Fashion Week as well as the top caliber of diverse talent making their mark on the city and the global fashion landscape. The CFDA Fashion Awards are our biggest fundraiser of the year, and we are looking forward to our industry coming together, in person again, to celebrate the very best of American creativity,” – said CFDA CEO Steven Kolb.
Nominations for each award category were submitted by the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, comprised of members of the CFDA, and Vogue magazine.

Winners of CFDA Fashion Awards 2021

Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021
Counterfeit Illegal goods designer Dapper Dan Winner of lifetime achievement CFDA Award 2021

American Womenswear Designer of the Year Christopher John Rogers – CFDA Award 2021
American Womenswear Designer of the Year Christopher John Rogers – CFDA Award 2021

Drew Barrymore and Christian Siriano at CFDA Award 2021
Drew Barrymore and Christian Siriano at CFDA Award 2021

Emerging Designer Of The Year Edvin Thompson Of Theophilio – CFDA Award 2021
Emerging Designer Of The Year Edvin Thompson Of Theophilio – CFDA Award 2021

Founders Award of the Year Aurora James and Dame Anna Wintour – CFDA Award 2021
Founders Award of the Year Aurora James and Dame Anna Wintour – CFDA Award 2021

Inaugural Face of the Year Award Anya Taylor-Joy presented by Cara Delevingne – CFDA Award 2021
Inaugural Face of the Year Award Anya Taylor-Joy presented by Cara Delevingne – CFDA Award 2021

International Women’s Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering Group – CFDA Award 2021
International Women’s Designer of the Year Demna Gvasalia of Balenciaga, Kering Group – CFDA Award 2021

The Board of Directors Tribute honoree Yeohlee Teng, presented by Michael Kors – CFDA Award 2021
The Board of Directors Tribute honoree Yeohlee Teng, presented by Michael Kors – CFDA Award 2021

Zendaya, 2021 CFDA Fashion Icon, Iman and stylist Law Roach at CFDA Award 2021
Zendaya, 2021 CFDA Fashion Icon, Iman and stylist Law Roach at CFDA Award 2021