\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: 2020

July 6, 2020

75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine

To celebrate its 75th anniversary, the Maison Balmain and its “creative” director Olivier Rousteing decided to do some sort of presentation on a barge on the Seine with fashion show, singer and dancers, to which everyone was virtually invited to watch live exclusively on Tik Tok. Press-releases with pompous announcements were massively distributed to the press about THE MOST WANTED Parisian event just before Haute Couture fashion week.

And many media actually published this announce about an “exceptional” event in Paris, which will be watched by thousands people, as it was created by “a great young designer, who’s reinvented fashion” (press-release).

75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine

Well…. Let’s do the “check list”, shall we?! This pompous event celebrating 75 years of Balmain fashion house was suppose to go alive, “for the first time in the history” on a barge on the Seine, watched by thousands of people in Paris and online…. And…. let’s try to see how it’ll go…. still trying…. couple of hours later still trying…. and this LIVE event didn’t go! No broadcast or anything were actually held on Tik Tok!


Check!


75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine – Yseult invited to perform
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine – Yseult invited to perform
Olivier Rousteing choose a very famous barge called “Sans Souci” , “No Worries” on English. One would think that it would be a big boat or barge, the way he announced it. Well, we all know and love this barge, as it is the one of the coolest and not expensive places to held some family anniversaries, or small company events. This barge can handle about 50 people. And yes, it is a very small barge. Many Parisians celebrated grandparents anniversaries on this barge, or small companies their events. We did too.


Check! 

Barge “Sans Souci” Paris
Barge “Sans Souci” Paris
This 75 years of Balmain fashion house announced under sign “Black lives matter”. One good thing that at the last moment Olivier Rousteing decided NOT to relate fashion house and social conflict. This time as Balmain was not able officially present the collection during this Haute Couture digital fashion week Olivier Rousteing decided to blow up Paris evening before July 5, 2020 with the “Balmain sur Seine” or better “Balmain Sans Souci”, which would be on English “Carefree Balmain” boat show on Seine. According to distributed press-release and interviews Olivier Rousteing basically doesn’t care about current situation, social distancing and this sort of things related to pandemic. It is indeed carefree.


Check! 

Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
“A barge is to cruise down the Seine River on Sunday evening, giving anyone gathered on the banks or pedestrian bridges a view of vintage couture and other fashions, a mini concert by French singer Yseult, and a surprise dance performance”, – announced WWD in another opulent, and apparently very expensive, tribute to Olivier Rousteing, in addition to recently published. “It’s important to reinforce who we are and what we’re known for,” Olivier Rousteing said in his interview to WWD.

So good for the reinforcement. Balmain fashion show was actually a show of 12 models (counted myself) presented couple pieces from Pierre Balmain and Oscar de la Renta, and then mostly Olivier Rousteing. Madame Figaro wrote: “The singer Yseult dressed all in white offers a concert, framed by a dozen models taking turns on mirror squares.” Good thing that Sabrina Pons, who wrote this “journalistic piece”, also counted – yes, indeed 12 models! Although with the concert… that is a big word! It was just couple of songs, and then when models left dozen of dancers took their place with a little performance.


Check!

Cindy Bruna for Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Cindy Bruna for Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
Sabrina Pons from Madame Figaro continues “around the Eiffel Tower, Parisians – warmly invited by the artistic director to go to the banks to follow the event…” Well from the looks of it, no one actually knew or cared about the event, no matter for how long Olivier Rousteing was bragging about this event to his “millions and millions” (purchased) followers on his social media networks and press. People who came to the banks of Seine to have some sun a the late Sunday afternoon didn’t have much interest, and no one was using their mobiles to take some photos! Did she really see some crowds who came to see the Balmain boat show celebrating 75th anniversary of the house? Did she see anyone taking pictures?! Maybe of Cindy Bruna - French top model? Anyone?.. Look, she was actually giving her attention and applause.... Maybe on the bridge?.. No one?! How come?!!

Cindy Bruna – 75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine – Balmain sur Seine 2020
Cindy Bruna – 75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine – Balmain sur Seine 2020
75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine
75 years of Balmain – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine – Balmain sur Seine 2020

Check! 

“The other and immense majority of spectators (several tens of thousands of people) can be found behind the screens,”- wrote Sabrina Pons from Madame Figaro. Nope!!! No one!!! Nada! No one was behind the screens, no LIVE Tik Tok! Didn’t she knew that?!!!

And I was also wondering how these kind of articles can be actually published in such respected media like WWD or Madame Figaro? Ok, paid articles… so that’s it, hah?! We publish any false and mind-numbingly stupid “journalistic pieces”? I remember the times when Madame Figaro was writing very sharp and quiet unpleasant for the fashion house critics, with disregard that fashion house paid very expensive price for this article. Am I getting old? Or experts and real journalists got fired? Or perhaps it is a time to recheck the staff?.. Although here, this is not my place to say “Check!”

And for the big finale… It was really hard to find some posts and photos about 75 years of Balmain fashion house – “Balmain Sans Souci” on Seine. Couple of bloggers on Instagram posted few photos and videos with 200 followers, and happily shared on Instagram by very emotionally moved by this historical moment Olivier Rousteing. That’s all about it!

See all looks of Balmain Couture Fall 2020 HERE


Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Couture Fall 2020 or Balmain sur Seine by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine
75 years of Balmain fashion house – Balmain Sans Souci sur Seine

Happy anniversary, Balmain!

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief RUNWAY MAGAZINE

July 4, 2020

Dolce Gabbana first Digital Alta Moda 2020 show

Dolce Gabbana Digital or Virtual Alta Moda 2020 catwalk show for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana reveal the inspirations behind the Alta Moda creations. A tribute to the “Bella Vita”, every piece recalls the Italian way of life. A journey through beauty and love by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
“The Women’s Alta Moda collection is dedicated to Italian holidays, with very deconstructed looks. We created pieces with foulards, we created kimonos that seem like swimsuits coverups…” – said Stefano Gabbana.

Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
“We enjoyed creating a selection of foulards inspired by the Italian holidays of the 50s and 60s, when people would buy them from the different cities as a souvenir to remember afterwards, even when you are far away, all the things you tried, ate, dreamed. This way, each creation becomes a travel journal,” – said Domenico Dolce.

Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
New travel foulard story unfolds… Palazzo Dolce&Gabbana, the location of the Alta Gioielleria, Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria exclusive events, narrates the story of Italian beauty and elegance for the Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season.

Selected looks from Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 to kill for. Photos courtesy of Dolce Gabbana

Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Alta Moda 2020 Digital – virtual catwalk – Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

May 26, 2020

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May 20, 2020

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April 27, 2020

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Article by Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE Eleonora de Gray. Read Full version of the article HERE.

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask
Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Are there standards for production of protective face masks?


Yes, there are standards, and it is very important to follow them. The standards are very strict, so the tiny virus can’t go trough. That is important to understand and specially when we all start to make masks ourselves. And it explains why 1 layer of cotton mask – doesn’t do anything, doesn’t serve to anything, and basically only give false feeling of protection. Let’s start with description of the materials from which surgical masks and N95 made of:

Surgical masks are made from “melt-blown, non-woven fabric”. They have a 3-layer structure comprising materials like:
Waterproof non-woven layer (front)
Microfiber melt-blown non-woven fabric as filter (middle) – VERY IMPORTANT
Ordinary non-woven fabric (back)


“Melt-blown” fabrics are not the woven or knitted structures in, like t-shirts and jeans for example, they are more like paper-mache. The complex layering and overlapping of these thin plastic filaments creates a thicket-like maze that can trap the airborne particles. The thin plastic filaments in disposable protective face masks are a polymer called polypropylene. Polypropylene has two great properties for repelling viruses: it is negatively charged, and it is water-repellent. Now, viruses need water to remain viable, and are also negatively charged. And…. negative repels negative. Negatively-charged polypropylene molecule will repel the negatively-charged virus, and because polypropylene also repels water, the virus is denied the moisture it needs to be viable. Ta-da!!!

Three separate types of polypropylene negatively-charged fabrics in the surgical face mask: a breathable type for next to mouth, a microfiber filtering type in the middle (filter), and a barrier type on the side facing the world.



3 layers surgical face mask
3 layers surgical face mask

N95 medical mask is almost the same as surgical mask but has more layers and fit tightly to the face. But the layers and principals are the same. Polyester also repels water, and is also negatively charged – just not as negative as polypropylene. That is why 1 layer of cotton, which has huge holes in relation to the size of virus, is useless. This kind of mask simply let virus go trough the cotton without any problem, as there’s no mask at all.

And now for the tricky part – the fabrics. There are all kinds of different fabrics, knits, cottons, polyesters, microfibers. What to choose? There are 2 organizations I know who provided all manufacturers and fashion designers with requirements of the fabrics for the masks for hospitals and for public. In USA all standards certified by The Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In France all standards certified by Association Française de Normalisation (AFNOR). Today they have million downloads from all over Europe standards guides to manufacturers and generally to everyone. Both these associations are on the same page.

AFNOR offers fabric guide to all public, which describes the quality of many fabrics which we can find and use. Do not hesitate – USE IT, CONSIDER IT AS ULTIMATE GUIDE !!! Quality of every fabric is described according to how airborne particles (virus included) can go trough or not, what fabric can be used as a barrier or filter. Today French government engaged several textile manufactures to produce protective masks for public according to AFNOR guide.

So let’s summer up and go according to AFNOR guide. The protective mask we can produce ourselves should contain several layers. Cotton can be used for front and back. And the most important middle layer is….

Microfiber Non-Woven Fabric as filter in face mask is THE SECRET WEAPON AGAINST VIRUS.


How to make Protective Mask Yourself


In another words the protective mask’s secret weapon lies in the middle layer. We can find this fabric in any supermarket. These fabrics we use for the napkins, for cleaning window and glasses “non-woven cloth”. It is very important to know that most air filtration are made of non-woven microfibers. Non-woven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, for example, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Why we use this microfiber non-woven fabrics for cleaning? Simply because microfiber textiles designed for cleaning on a microscopic scale. Why? Because they negatively-charged, and therefore this fabric keeps all dust and microbes on them. According to tests using microfiber materials to clean a surface leads to reducing the number of bacteria by 99%, whereas a conventional cleaning material reduces this number only by 33%.

So when it comes to the protective mask it is a vital importance to use this microfiber non-woven fabric as a filter. The one we can buy on the supermarkets for cleaning is close enough to the microfiber fabric used for medical masks. Another trick worth mentioning. As I already mentioned this microfiber fabric is negatively-charged, the cotton on another hand is positively-charged, as it made with natural materials.

Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
And guess what happens when negatively-charged and positively-charged materials are interacting with each other when they put together in the mask? They are creating a electromagnetic field, which is for certain stops virus for getting to you. The virus particles glues to the microfiber filter and stays there. This is the secret of the filter.

So to simplify the protective face mask you are going to make yourself should have 3 layers. 2 cotton layers and in the middle as filter microfiber non-woven fabric.

How to make protective face mask yourself


If you choose thin microfiber non-woven material like table napkin for example, the mask can’t be washed and can’t be reused. And another if you can’t find non-woven microfiber material buy woven microfiber material. It won’t be that effective, but it’ll still be protective, as this material will still be negatively-charged and will create electromagnetic field when interacting with cotton. Also don’t buy non-woven materials where are some products in them, or made of some glass particles like many bags for vacuum cleaners. The best choice would be fabrics for cleaning windows. Fleece (it’s also non-woven polyester) will do too BUT is much less effective, as it not that strong, so negative field won’t be that powerful, and as a result electromagnetic field will be not that strong.

Let’s say non-woven microfiber cloth as filter will give 80-90% of protection, woven microfiber cloth will give 70% of protection, fleece will give 60% of protection.

For more better performance and more sewing experience I give couple of images from AFNOR.

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

March 8, 2020

Best of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear

Best of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear. Paris fashion week despite of many complications showed some spectacular collections. Trend proposed by Paris came in color, for ones, and in geometrical shapes. Mondrian-ish looking shirts and pants are the “new black”.


Best looks in alphabetic order.

Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Oh, FYI, it is not a Hermes what all of us remember from 1990s – it’s new Balmain. Don’t ask…. Yes, please do! Read more about what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain here.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
This is Hermes collection for new Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. This collection is a tribute to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Read the special story here.

Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.


Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most original and worth seeing collections, newest trends of Paris Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season can be seen here.