\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: 2020

October 7, 2020

Best of Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021

Best of Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021 season. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Paris was competing with New York and Milan about how to organize in the best way fashion week, make it safe and secure for the designers, all participants and the people who’ll be able to attend. Fashion Federation in New York decided to go mostly for digital presentation, only few very private shows were organized by the designers at their own homes.

Milan obviously won this “safety” competition. The masks, social distancing (2m between the seats), negative tests for all participants and the gusts at the entrance – perfect organization. Fashion Federation in Paris (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode) organized the fashion week…. well, how it’s been always organized in Paris. Federation announced that 1000 people are perfectly allowed to be present at the show, even French government forbid all public gatherings for more than 12 people. No one really cared about social distancing, and of course there were no negative tests demands. Although not too many designers organized the real shows, many decided “go safety”, “go digital”, and do the online presentations.

Christian Dior, Balmain and Chanel and couple of emerging designers organized “real” shows, plus of course fashion salons. Salons were empty, no one visited them, as public already long time ago lost interest to emerging brands repeating, recopying and reproducing each other, and now professionals, experts, media and buyers are no longer interested in overprized badly made clothes.

The result of these efforts are… zero, not a big fat one, invisible one. The scheduled online presentations didn’t draw much attention either. Brands, who are so eager to buy fake followers on instagram and other social media networks, didn’t get closer to reality, not much viewers were noted on the instagram or youtube. Perhaps it is a time to face it – only very small community, 200-300 people are really interested to watch, and only 5% of them are actually have desire to buy.

See Best of the Spring Summer 2021 looks HERE


Christian Dior opened the fashion week, and showed Italian looks, looks repeated Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino designs, spiced up by peasant tasteless looks, during the modern, very contemporary choral, which no one was able to handle for more than 2 mon, plus pseudo-artistic approach.

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Olivier Rousteing for Balmain Spring Summer 2021 season decided to battle his habit to copy and presented something which no one expected – a collection “dig, dig, dig, dig, dig, dig, dig”. Heigh-Ho, he actually found the way, for ones, this ones, to use traditional Balmain logo on the garments and bags, and presented the looks he actually created himself, and the Pinocchio looks he actually loves: oversized long jackets and shorts panties.

Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

The hit of this season was Spring Summer 2021 collection presented by Rick Owens from Milan. He organized the show in Milan, to be safe, knowing that Paris is not ready and not willing or capable to compel to health issues, and projected it to Paris digitally. Can you imagine Rick Owens pink? No, you can’t. But here it is – pink, fresh and beautiful, full of hope and actually elegance. In all ways it feels like the heart of Rick Owens during these dark times filled up with the hope.

Rick Owens Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Rick Owens Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 created an ode to Vivienne Westwood, romantic and profound ” from Chinese Tanka to English fog”. Beautiful, very profound digital presentation gave this fascination to this collection maybe because of this beautiful ode to the queen Vivienne, the lady of his heart. And of course “without further ado”, discussions, conferences and investment, Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 collection presented another sustainability creative project. N.B Fabrics: Recycled, Eco, Bio, Organic, FSC Certified.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Chanel wanted to present “Hollywood” collection for this Spring Summer 2021 season. The look apparently reserved for the stars, who’ll wear them for the next Award ceremony. Everything was designed to support this “cinematic” view: huge letters ‘CHANEL” in the manner of famous “Hollywood” letters in California, colorful simple pants and jackets, ti-shirts with letter “5” in the form of the street tags, colorful shirts with photos of neon lights. Chanel Spring-Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard, inspired by the House’s privileged relationship with actresses, both on and off-screen.

Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Nicolas Ghesquiere for Louis Vuitton for Spring Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week season actually presented a concept. The fashion show took place in renewed and opened La Samaritaine. Movie “Wings of Desire” of Wim Wenders, and repeated image of Bruno Ganz, an Angel staying on the roof of high building in Berlin right after the Second Word War, is a leitmotiv of Louise Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere.

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 – Bruno Ganz Wings of Desire by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 – Bruno Ganz Wings of Desire by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2021 “Still With A Loving Kiss”. John Galliano presented a movie at Paris Fashion week. Artistic dancing, backstage artisanal work and interview – all of these mix-match laid down as a sustainability concept of Maison Margiela. John Galliano told about his passion to discover old pieces on flee-markets all over the world, replicate them, re-create them, so the garments could have a new life and live again. He proposed new recycling project of the House.

Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2021 – John Galliano by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Spring Summer 2021 – John Galliano by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

And basically there’s nothing more to say about Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2021 season. No more creative concepts noted, and to speak about massive fiasco has no longer any interest.

October 5, 2020

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week. The fashion show took place in renewed and opened La Samaritaine, renewed and turned by Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH (Louis Vuitton group) in luxury hotel.

Movie “Wings of Desire” of Wim Wenders, and repeated image of Bruno Ganz, an Angel staying on the roof of high building in Berlin right after the Second Word War, is a leitmotiv of Louise Vuitton Spring Summer 2021 collection by Nicolas Ghesquiere.

Is that a message that the old world is destroyed, but there’s always a hope? The original name of the movie “The Heaven over Berlin”, the movie about hope and love, the story of Angels. The collection is inspired by modern generation of artistic Berlin.

If you look at the collection closely you will see several themes:

  • the theme of Berlin’s wall – the contemporary art and graffiti,
  • the theme of the Angel – black coats and lose jackets,
  • the theme of the sky and clouds – grey and silver combinezons with clouds on them,
  • and the theme of the prisoner’s uniform of death camps – ti-shirts and pants with stripes.

Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere took these themes with the HOPE. This is the story in the “Wings of Desire” or “Heaven over Berlin” and the theme of the collection. That is probably why on some ti-shirts we can see one word “VOTE” (fist look), so the darkest human history won’t repeat itself.

See ALL LOOKS HERE

Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz
Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz

Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz
Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz

Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz
Wings of Desire by Wim Wenders – Bruno Ganz

Chanel Spring Summer 2021

Chanel Spring Summer 2021 Paris Fashion Week. Hollywoo….

Press-release:
For the press kit of the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection imagined by Virginie Viard, the Dutch photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have shot a series of photographs and videos, inspired by the House’s privileged relationship with actresses, both on and off-screen.

In three different decors, the models Rianne Van Rompaey, Mica Argañaraz and Louise de Chevigny play four recurring cinematic situations. On the telephone, gazing out of the window, sitting on a bed, and walking through the heart of Paris, they embody the natural elegance and the photogenicity of the silhouettes imagined by the Artistic Director.

“Playing on the idea of repetition, the women all enact the same gestures,” confide Inez & Vinoodh. “They are each clearly in their own world but together represent what we feel is Chanel’s way of fitting into the lives of every woman with a cool and easy allure.”

The CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection will be shown on Tuesday October 6th 2020 at 10.30am (Paris time) at the Grand Palais in Paris. The show will also be streamed live on chanel.com and across CHANEL’s social media.

See ALL LOOKS HERE


Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


October 3, 2020

Kenzo Takada – fashion icon died 4 October 2020

Kenzo Takada – fashion icon died 4 October 2020. With his use of colors and lights, he forever changed Parisian couture. It is sad to know that this great designer became another victim of Covid-19.

Kenzo Takada support to RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kenzo Takada support to RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Mat Maitland creative commercial project for Kenzo – 2013 Resort collection
Mat Maitland creative commercial project for Kenzo – 2013 Resort collection

He was suppose to attend the evening 23 September 2020, the premiere of the film “House of Cardin”, but at that time he was already weakened by coronavirus. Full of life, full of flowers Kenzo Takada was spirited away in the land of beauty and art.

PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: Kenzo Takada celebrates his 80th Birthday at Pavillon Ledoyen on February 28, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Rindoff Petroff/Castel/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE – FEBRUARY 28: Kenzo Takada celebrates his 80th Birthday at Pavillon Ledoyen on February 28, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Rindoff Petroff/Castel/Getty Images)

Many people in Paris today expressed their sadness. Kenzo Takada was born in Japan, he came to Paris in January 1965. And he indeed became a national treasure.

Kenzo Takada and Eleonora de Gray – Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kenzo Takada and Eleonora de Gray – Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

I’ve meet him in 2010 during his art exposition in Pierre Cardin gallery. And since then I always felt his support and participation in many fashion and art project we organized. And I’m forever thankful for that.

Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE

September 29, 2020

Balmain Spring Summer 2021

Balmain Spring Summer 2021 Paris Fashion Week. Review by ELEONORA DE GRAY, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Olivier Rousteing new exploration of the history of the brand. Beautiful quotes of Pierre Balmain at the beginning of the show, classy and ultimate untimely looks presented by senior models. The collection gave an impression that Balmain had to hire an expert, and Olivier Rousteing was guided strongly in the lines of the brand.

And yes, Olivier Rousteing felt like “Winning!” after massive lawsuits storm during last 2 years for the copy designs of other houses. This time he stayed in the strong lines! Just this ones… Balmain logo patterns, longer silhouettes, some plays from 80s, colors, just high shoulder lines from Pierre Cardin, but that’s all about it. Strangely enough you can actually find new collection of Balmain for Spring Summer 2021 very elegant and beautiful. Was there someone else? Couldn’t be Olivier Rousteing creating from out of nowhere after crude copies of other designers and incapacity to create. But, hey… here we are… watching fabulous collection, all in lines, Pierre Balmain related, with strong creative concept.

Kim Kardashian gave her massive support on her instagram. Kanye West was actually present at the show. Although… no restrictions has been respected, concerning Covid-19. We are not in Milan after all. No masks, no social distancing, 1000 people got snugly squashed like canned sardines. Oh well…. see show and die!

See ALL LOOKS HERE



Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Kim Kardashian in Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kim Kardashian in Balmain Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


September 28, 2020

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 Paris Fashion Week. Review by RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®.

Maria Grazia Chiuri created not eco but “echo” collection to Dolce & Gabbana pieces from last season for the next Spring Summer 2021. Handmade pieces, little shorties, flued dresses…. Christian Dior fashion house became Italian house. There’s a strong feeling that we are still in Milan Fashion Week. Although we are in Paris, and house of Christian Dior had strong identity.

First show of Paris Fashion Week organized without many restrictions, ordered by French Government in relation to Covid-19. Massive gatherings are strictly forbidden. Christian Dior organized show for 1000 people, no social distancing, no places between guests, no Covid test at the entrance, masks occasionally. The organization of Paris Fashion Week in Paris is very far from organization of Milan Fashion Week.

See ALL LOOKS HERE


Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


September 27, 2020

Best of Milan Fashion Week 2020

Best of Milan Fashion Week 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. 

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana – Fashion Italian Federation showed absolutely EXCELLENT way to deal with the current health crises circumstances. After dull videos presented on the web-site of of New York Fashion Week, and colorful lookbooks displayed on the web-site of British Fashion Council, Carlo Capasa Chairman of Cameramoda organized this Milan Fashion Week under the rules and took necessary measures. The fashion week went so impeccably well that President of WHO Tedros Adhanom sent his felicitations to the Carlo Capasa and Cameramoda.

“This is a year in which vanguard brands have heeded the call and responded to the needs of the industry and those who represent the backbone of the fashion sector. We have been dedicated to presenting a fashion week that is in-line with security regulations and is in compliance with government measures and regional ordinances. Our platform, created in response to the social distancing regulations and travel limitations imposed by the global health pandemic, remains, during this edition, a key, functional, creative tool that supports our role in the physical fashion shows. This success would not have been possible without the fruitful collaboration of the Municipality of Milan, of ITA (the Italian Trade Agency), of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and of Confartigianato Imprese, to which we would like to express our gratitude,” – Carlo Capasa, Chairman of CameraModa.

Every designer were given a choice and specific orders about how to present the collections. Some designers decided to do the video presentations, some like Giorgio Armani and Elisabetta Franchi did the shows without public LIVE, and some decided to do the shows with very limited number of the invited guests. The rules were determined and respected: masks at all times, social distance, and every guest at the entrance was suppose to show the resent Covid-19 negative test. This organization of Milan Fashion Week was noticed and became perfect example to all fashion Federations and Organizations.

Upcoming fashion week in Paris is far from being organized the same way. Designers apparently are left alone upon their own will. Presentations and cocktails are organizing without any specific restrictions. Resent big event, Premiere of a film about Maison Pierre Cardin in Théâtre du Châtelet, with more than 500 guests went with symbolic respect of the rules. Guests of course wore the masks during the premiere of the film, but completely forgot during the cocktail, no social distancing, no temperature check at the entrance, and of course there are no negative test requests at the entrance. French Government is putting more and more restrictions on the massive gatherings, but apparently many houses are going to ignore it. Let’s see how French Federation is going to handle the task related to health safety. But what is preparing now, doesn’t look like any measures were opposed by French Federation.

During Milan Fashion Week designers presented outstanding and colorful collections. Beautiful presentations, conferences and discussions related to how to reorganize the industry for the best profit of all.

See ALL LOOKSBOOKS HERE

Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week “Sicilian Patchwork” had absolute success. 

Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Prada Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week.

Prada Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Prada Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week. “Building Dialogs” absolutely exceptional collection presented by Armani for the Spring Summer 2021 season has this exquisite and elegant presence. Men… Women…. living… community… building dialogs…. This cinematic story Armani told on all languages, with all colors and with LOVE.

Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Elisabetta Franchi Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week.

Elisabetta Franchi Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elisabetta Franchi Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elisabetta Franchi Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elisabetta Franchi Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week.

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 “Muppet show” Milan Fashion Week.

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Moschino Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week.

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week.

Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Spring Summer 2021 Milan by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

September 25, 2020

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week. Reportage by RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

See all LOOKS of the collection HERE. 


Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Giorgio Armani Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE


September 24, 2020

Versace Spring Summer 2021

Versace Spring Summer 2021 Milan Fashion Week. Hidden treasures – an aquatic journey to Versacepolis. Into the blue inspired by the beauty and wildness of nature, the Versace Spring Summer 2021 Collection took place in created underwater setting.

See all looks HERE


Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Versace Spring Summer 2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE