RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: Couture

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 – PornHub Follies or “Schiap show”. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

This Haute Couture fashion week started with great sadness – Thierry Mugler left us. The King is dead…. And… Haute Couture fashion week started with Schiaparelli by Texan Daniel Roseberry.

PornHub Follies for Kanye West

Daniel Roseberry’s collection merged the showmanship of the PornHub Follies with the drama of sci-fi…. and looks so well chosen and reinvented from Pierre Cardin and Thierry Mugler, with slight difference that these looks meant for Kanye West.

Old Parisian Haute Couture House Schiaparelli opened its doors and made garments to present to former rapper and PurnHub Producer Kanye West, assumingly that these pieces will soon be used in his production. Daniel Roseberry, drugging behind name of Else Schiaparelli (or Schiapareli with one “l”), already last season proposed his garments to strippers, drag queens for their shows (and not the most elegant ones).

Apparently Daniel Roseberry likes when they say “Ouch”… Although he didn’t introduced “Haute Couture” surreal sex-toys like another Parisian brand (“On Aura Tout Vu”, translated as “We’ve seen it all”) did this season. Schiaparelli is a Haute Couture House with the identity linked to surrealism. So sex-toys should be surreal (tip). Sex-toys were not introduced just yet. We’ll have to wait for the next season.

Kanye West in black pantyhose and Julia Fox at Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022

This season Daniel Roseberry got more than excited as known and renown PornHub Awards Creative director and PornHub Producer, former rapper Kanye West came to his show accompanied by “new flame”, new muse Julia Fox, known for her leading roles in erotic dramas and series, was testament to the brand’s heat.

Kanye West appeared at the Schiaparelli show during Paris Fashion Week with black pantyhose over head, like bank robbers from the 1980s. Kanye West got used to pantyhose, as he wore this “headwear” for different events like football games or glamorous evenings, according to the comments made by Snoop Dogg and Kevin Hart at the New Year show, which made millions of Americans laugh.

Daniel Roseberry, as a “visionary” marketer, probably already know that pantyhose videos are skyrocketing on PurnHub. So with Kanye West is a win-win situation.

Talking about Kanye West in black pantyhose. There’s probably another explanation to this. He’s probably still desperately tries to match his ex-wife. Kim Kardashian appeared in black outfit made for her by Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, for Met Gala 2021. There were no erotic meaning, but Kanye West took it in whole new level, so as Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2022 Couture or “Schiap show“

Maybe for the public Schiaparelli show looked like “Haute Couture returns”… but from expert point of view – not so much. Let’s look closely. The gilding on the accessories is not gilding – it’s just a golden paint, no volume, looks “reinvented” or reproduced. Daniel Roseberry in his notes about the show, proudly published on the Schiaparelli web-site, said that the looks he didn’t even draw anything. Of course he didn’t have to – everything was already drawn by Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin. He just needed to look at the sketches and make some changes, add accessories, and Bum!.. 3-dimensional!

Suzy Menkes, known independent fashion expert, called it “Schiap show”. And it sounds like “Cheap”. Cheap show, yes indeed.

Suzy Menkes about Schiaparelli Couture Spring Summer 2022 show

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

In pompous notes to the show Daniel Roseberry wrote: “What felt exciting was something more restrained. Suddenly colour seemed wrong to me. So did volume. All of the tricks that couture designers – including me! – used to communicate – grandeur and craftsmanship – felt hollow.”

Indeed this collection felt hollow, empty. After 2 years thinking about surreal, plunging into the archives of Elsa Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry came out only with nothing, so he came to “check” what’s good around.

Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring Summer 2022 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Daniel Roseberry and Cone-bra of Jean Paul Gaultier

I already expressed my opinion about iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra created by Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna in 1990s. And it is not clear why Daniel Roseberry reinventing and appropriating this creation. Read more about it in the review about Ready-to-Wear Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022 HERE.

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990s - iconic cone-bra or bullet-bra

Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna 1990 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli RTW Spring Summer 2022

JP Gaultier for Stephanie Faracy – Hocus Pocus 1993 vs Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli HC Spring Summer 2022

I’m not convinced as I see echoes of Thierry Mugler and Pierre Cardin in this collection. And from the looks of it the volume is not profound – these are just scene costumes, and they can’t represent Parisian elegance. And they probably shouldn’t as they designed not just for Las Vegas but for Kanye West new production.