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April 28, 2020

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Article by Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE Eleonora de Gray. Read Full version of the article HERE.

Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask
Keep Mask and Carry On - How to make Protective Mask

Are there standards for production of protective face masks?


Yes, there are standards, and it is very important to follow them. The standards are very strict, so the tiny virus can’t go trough. That is important to understand and specially when we all start to make masks ourselves. And it explains why 1 layer of cotton mask – doesn’t do anything, doesn’t serve to anything, and basically only give false feeling of protection. Let’s start with description of the materials from which surgical masks and N95 made of:

Surgical masks are made from “melt-blown, non-woven fabric”. They have a 3-layer structure comprising materials like:
Waterproof non-woven layer (front)
Microfiber melt-blown non-woven fabric as filter (middle) – VERY IMPORTANT
Ordinary non-woven fabric (back)


“Melt-blown” fabrics are not the woven or knitted structures in, like t-shirts and jeans for example, they are more like paper-mache. The complex layering and overlapping of these thin plastic filaments creates a thicket-like maze that can trap the airborne particles. The thin plastic filaments in disposable protective face masks are a polymer called polypropylene. Polypropylene has two great properties for repelling viruses: it is negatively charged, and it is water-repellent. Now, viruses need water to remain viable, and are also negatively charged. And…. negative repels negative. Negatively-charged polypropylene molecule will repel the negatively-charged virus, and because polypropylene also repels water, the virus is denied the moisture it needs to be viable. Ta-da!!!

Three separate types of polypropylene negatively-charged fabrics in the surgical face mask: a breathable type for next to mouth, a microfiber filtering type in the middle (filter), and a barrier type on the side facing the world.



3 layers surgical face mask
3 layers surgical face mask

N95 medical mask is almost the same as surgical mask but has more layers and fit tightly to the face. But the layers and principals are the same. Polyester also repels water, and is also negatively charged – just not as negative as polypropylene. That is why 1 layer of cotton, which has huge holes in relation to the size of virus, is useless. This kind of mask simply let virus go trough the cotton without any problem, as there’s no mask at all.

And now for the tricky part – the fabrics. There are all kinds of different fabrics, knits, cottons, polyesters, microfibers. What to choose? There are 2 organizations I know who provided all manufacturers and fashion designers with requirements of the fabrics for the masks for hospitals and for public. In USA all standards certified by The Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In France all standards certified by Association Française de Normalisation (AFNOR). Today they have million downloads from all over Europe standards guides to manufacturers and generally to everyone. Both these associations are on the same page.

AFNOR offers fabric guide to all public, which describes the quality of many fabrics which we can find and use. Do not hesitate – USE IT, CONSIDER IT AS ULTIMATE GUIDE !!! Quality of every fabric is described according to how airborne particles (virus included) can go trough or not, what fabric can be used as a barrier or filter. Today French government engaged several textile manufactures to produce protective masks for public according to AFNOR guide.

So let’s summer up and go according to AFNOR guide. The protective mask we can produce ourselves should contain several layers. Cotton can be used for front and back. And the most important middle layer is….

Microfiber Non-Woven Fabric as filter in face mask is THE SECRET WEAPON AGAINST VIRUS.


How to make Protective Mask Yourself


In another words the protective mask’s secret weapon lies in the middle layer. We can find this fabric in any supermarket. These fabrics we use for the napkins, for cleaning window and glasses “non-woven cloth”. It is very important to know that most air filtration are made of non-woven microfibers. Non-woven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fibre (short) and long fibres (continuous long), bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, for example, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Why we use this microfiber non-woven fabrics for cleaning? Simply because microfiber textiles designed for cleaning on a microscopic scale. Why? Because they negatively-charged, and therefore this fabric keeps all dust and microbes on them. According to tests using microfiber materials to clean a surface leads to reducing the number of bacteria by 99%, whereas a conventional cleaning material reduces this number only by 33%.

So when it comes to the protective mask it is a vital importance to use this microfiber non-woven fabric as a filter. The one we can buy on the supermarkets for cleaning is close enough to the microfiber fabric used for medical masks. Another trick worth mentioning. As I already mentioned this microfiber fabric is negatively-charged, the cotton on another hand is positively-charged, as it made with natural materials.

Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
Understanding - 3 layers protective mask
And guess what happens when negatively-charged and positively-charged materials are interacting with each other when they put together in the mask? They are creating a electromagnetic field, which is for certain stops virus for getting to you. The virus particles glues to the microfiber filter and stays there. This is the secret of the filter.

So to simplify the protective face mask you are going to make yourself should have 3 layers. 2 cotton layers and in the middle as filter microfiber non-woven fabric.

How to make protective face mask yourself


If you choose thin microfiber non-woven material like table napkin for example, the mask can’t be washed and can’t be reused. And another if you can’t find non-woven microfiber material buy woven microfiber material. It won’t be that effective, but it’ll still be protective, as this material will still be negatively-charged and will create electromagnetic field when interacting with cotton. Also don’t buy non-woven materials where are some products in them, or made of some glass particles like many bags for vacuum cleaners. The best choice would be fabrics for cleaning windows. Fleece (it’s also non-woven polyester) will do too BUT is much less effective, as it not that strong, so negative field won’t be that powerful, and as a result electromagnetic field will be not that strong.

Let’s say non-woven microfiber cloth as filter will give 80-90% of protection, woven microfiber cloth will give 70% of protection, fleece will give 60% of protection.

For more better performance and more sewing experience I give couple of images from AFNOR.

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

Protective Mask Design

March 8, 2020

Best of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear

Best of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear. Paris fashion week despite of many complications showed some spectacular collections. Trend proposed by Paris came in color, for ones, and in geometrical shapes. Mondrian-ish looking shirts and pants are the “new black”.


Best looks in alphabetic order.

Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Agnes B Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Alexander McQueen Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balenciaga Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Oh, FYI, it is not a Hermes what all of us remember from 1990s – it’s new Balmain. Don’t ask…. Yes, please do! Read more about what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain here.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Celine Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chanel Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christian Dior Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Duds collection Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Chloe Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Comme des Garcons Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Elie Saab Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Givenchy Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
This is Hermes collection for new Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. This collection is a tribute to Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Read the special story here.

Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Hermes Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lacoste Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Lanvin Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Leonard Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Louis Vuitton Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Maison Margiela Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Marine Serre Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Mugler Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Off-White Fall Winter 2020-2021 Arcteryx and Obelix – Virgil Abloh by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Paco Rabanne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Rick Owens Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Saint Laurent Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Stella McCartney Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Valentino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Viktor&Rolf Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Zuhair Murad Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.


Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
The most original and worth seeing collections, newest trends of Paris Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season can be seen here.

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020

The most exciting presentations at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2020 – Delvaux, Ermenegildo Zegna, Yeezy by Kanye West, Madonna Madam X pop-up store, Schiaparelli.

Despite of all complications, cancelled shows and presentations, this Paris Fashion Week had some spectacular events and presentations for the next Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season. Let’s check the ones we enjoyed the most.

Delvaux

One of the most fabulous event this season was a presentation of Delvaux 1829, oldest fine leather luxury goods house from Belgium. The house welcomed many guests this season. The guest of honor was a movie star Isabelle Huppert, the French star, winner of numerous Cesars and Oscar for Best Actress. 

Warm welcome during countless hours were very much appreciated by the guests. Another absolutely collection right away find its admirers right away.


Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week
Isabelle Huppert and Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at Delvaux Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week
Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Delvaux presentations Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God

Another very special presentation took the place this season – a collection for men and women from Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the oldest finest sartorial houses and Fear of God, a young brand from Los Angeles. Exceptional collection deserved an exceptional look from many special guests, like artistic director of Louis Vuitton fashion house Nicolas Ghesquiere, who also came to admire and greet the designers Alessandro Sartori and Jerry Lorenzo.


From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
From right to left: Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, and Jerry Lorenzo, founder of Fear of God. Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Yeezy by Kanye West

Kim Kardashian and Kanye West brought to Paris love to KFC, first concert of Sunday Service (gospel performance), and the show of Yeezy, a street wear line. They came 2 weeks in advance and amused Paris by ordering chicken wings in KFC on Strasbourg St Denis on their way to satisfy their shopping needs with Jean Paul Gaultier and Balmain.

Kanye West for the first time brought his Sunday Service to Europe. He started with Paris, he performed the gospels just day before the presentation of the his collection. It was quiet special event, which was not at all appreciated by fashion press for many reason. It might take more than chicken wings, praising God and quiet few doubloons to conquer Paris.


Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Kanye West at Yeezy presentation during Paris Fashion Week by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Yeezy by Kanye West Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Madonna Madam X Mae

Madonna followed Kim Kardashian and Kanye West. She started her world “Madame X Tour” from Paris in Grand Rex. And at the same time she opened pop-up store on Filles du Calvaire (Marais) to show her collection March 4th. Available in this pop-up store exclusive items created by painter and stylist Mae with the colors of Madonna’s “Madame X Tour”. Black, red, white t-shirts or hoodies, customized hats, vinyls, pictures numbered by the artist and shot by Ricardo Gomes, with camouflage patterns, reflecting Madonna herself and her intimate world tour. Exclusive items in limited edition only available at this pop-up store.

A charity sale planned on Thursday March 12 for the foundation created by Madonna, Raising Malawi. Madonna will be present at this event.

Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Madonna Madame X Mae pop-up store opening for Fall-Winter 2020-2021 in Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Schiaparelli

And of course private presentation at the house of Schiaparelli on Place Vendome was appreciated the most. It is not that long ago this Haute Couture fashion house with great and very artistic history started the line of Ready-to-Wear. Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli fabulously “translated” codes of the house into surrealistic pieces and accessories. We noted on instagram special guests who visited Schiaparelli fashion house during this presentation day played with the glasses like children and tried them on.

Visiting the workshop, checking the new designs, sketches, discussing history, color choices and fabrics, and champagne of course made this private visit a delight during this fashion week.


Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Eleonora de Gray and Daniel Roseberry, artistic director of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris
Guillaumette Duplaix (RUNWAY MAGAZINE Editor) at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Guillaumette Duplaix at presentation of Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE