\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: Fall-Winter 2020-2021
Showing posts with label Fall-Winter 2020-2021. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fall-Winter 2020-2021. Show all posts

March 8, 2020

2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

2020 Trend “Marie Antoinette” by RUNWAY MAGAZINE. Marie-Antoinette style became more and more popular. Quietly this style entered into the market. It all started from this…

Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006
Sofia Coppola – Marie Antoinette – movie 2006
Fancy mistake on the movie setting changed it all. In 2006 Sofia Coppola decided to keep this fancy few seconds in the movie, which changed fashion for the next 20 years.

Over the years designers tried to exercise their creativity and produce all kinds of shoes, and specially snickers.

Marie Antoinette style sneakers
Marie Antoinette style sneakers
This fancy style never left the scene because it is always create the dream and the wonder. Some fashion designers tried to push it really hard.

Finally Thom Browne, great tailor from New York, with long history with Ermenegildo Zegna, reached the absolute in menswear and fine tailored suits and gone wild. He decided to go for the fancy extraordinary suits for men and women, and he is the one who created the scandal in Paris in July 2019.

He showed in Paris fine tailors for the football players (or something) in the style of Marie Antoinette – Spring Summer 2020 season. A year later for the Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season Jeremy Scott, great imitator, and artistic designer of Moschino, decided to go even further, and to make this Marie Antoinette style ultimately popular. He showed spectacular collection in Milan, and we all hope that “Marie Antoinette” classy punch into the face of fashion will work very well and became a new trend.

And here are some thoughts….

© Creative work of RUNWAY MAGAZINE / Eleonora de Gray – All rights reserved.

Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Thom Browne Spring-Summer 2020 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Moschino Fall-Winter 2020-2021 by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
So get your sneakers ready to go…. and don’t forget the bows.

Postscript. After publication of this article we saw little presentation of shows of Gherardo Felloni, the artistic director of the French brand Roger Vivier. He decided to show his new collection of extravagant shoes and line of jewelry by 2 models dressed in Marie Antoinette style with heads of cats in boudoir type of situation.

Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Roger Vivier Fall-Winter 2020-2021 presentation Paris by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

And again sneakers must go on…

Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020

Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020
Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020



Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020. Balmain Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain, started 2d year of his “understanding” of fashion. It is known fact that he didn’t go to the fashion school, and basically has been chosen to become new creative director for many reasons, including his close connection to Kim Kardashian and her boyfriend Kanye West, but not by his talen and creative skills as a designer.

This question was asked by many media personalities and media, and Olivier Rousteing every time tried to prove or improve his skills. So he choose special way – reproduction, or simply copy. Apparently he spent hours in library with his iPhone, taking photos of old Vogue magazines with forgotten looks of great designers like Thierry Mugler, Karl Lagerfeld or Pierre Cardin.

So his first year in fashion started from season and collection for Spring Summer 2019, which had exact copy some Thierry Mugler looks. And it was well noted by Thierry Mugler himself, media, fashion experts, and also by bloggers.

Thierry Mugler posted on his personal instagram:
Balmain Spring Summer 2019 – Thierry Mugler copy. Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Probably we all didn’t understand something. That is basically how Olivier Rousteing started his fashion school of design. Next “inspiration” became Karl Lagerfeld. He showed Balmain Cruise 2020 collection in his style with some Mexican touches and rock-n-roll.

Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection

Next designer Olivier Rousteing studied and tried to reproduce was Pierre Cardin. Spring Summer 2020 Balmain collection was all in Pierre Cardin style, although no tribute or dedication was mentioned to the press or blogger or anywhere visible on the press-release, instead the press-release announced that the presented designs are unique, which never existed before.

It is indeed is a good compilation of Pierre Cardin innovations with its profusion of optical effects and circular motifs. Although no dedication was indicated in press-release of the collection. Instead Olivier Rousteing stated in his interviews that “I call Balmain the guilty pleasure, because it’s not a brand that follows trends. It creates its own codes, and for me, it’s important to remain true to yourself. Sometimes people like it, and sometimes they don’t, but I always say I’d rather be disliked for who I am than liked for who I’m not.”

Apparently copied looks of Thierry Mugler, or redesigned looks of Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre Cardin were also appropriated by the designer with pretension that these codes were also created by him. It is indeed someone likes copies, and someone doesn’t. 

Who Balmain wants to fool? Kim Kardashian, or his new First “Mum”, who recently adopted him?

Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
This Fall-Winter 2020-2021 took a hit on old looks from 1990s of Hermes fashion house. Although as it is 2d year of Olivier Rousteing, so he reconstructed them very well, and with the caution. He also added some Italian touches, changed a little design of the fabrics and added the embroideries. Crafty! With meaning not related to craftsmanship.

The theme of the collection dedicated to astrological signs and horses of course (Hermes was there), and specifically to Scorpion. And it says it all.


Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
And last but not least – a leather corset with formed breasts – invention of Jean Paul Gaultier for the Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture season, and of course reproduced in almost exact way by Olivier Rousteing for Fall-Winter 2020-2021.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
The worst is yet to come…. who’s going to be remastered / reproduced by Olivier Rousteing for next season? Who’d be the next great designer, who’s designs he’ll announce as his own? That is the question!

February 18, 2020

Best of London Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear

Best of London Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Ready-to-Wear. London for this Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season showed some pieces… Nothing exciting, every designer was trying to squeeze out “Vivienne Westwood” out of them without success. Designers from Central ST Martins school still don’t give up hope for showing something creative. The only one designer is worth of mentioning – Richard Quinn, who showed some great artistic creative work, inspired by Alexander McQueen (for the season Spring Summer 2020 he went for Dolce & Gabbana stance). The all other brands came out with quiet boring brexit looking collections, with hope that they are commercial enough to get some interest of the public. Tommy Hilfiger showed some pretty sporty, ultra fugly pieces.
The most original and worth seeing collections, newest trends of London Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season can be seen here.
Best looks in alphabetic order.

Burberry Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Burberry Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Central ST Martins school Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Central ST Martins school Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christopher Kane Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Christopher Kane Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
JW Anderson Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
JW Anderson Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Marques’Almeida Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Marques’Almeida Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Matty Bovan Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Matty Bovan Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
ON|OFF Presents Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
ON|OFF Presents Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Richard Malone Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Richard Malone Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Richard Quinn Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Richard Quinn Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Richard Quinn Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Richard Quinn Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

Richard Quinn Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Richard Quinn Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Roland Mouret Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Roland Mouret Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schrimps Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Schrimps Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Simone Rocha Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Simone Rocha Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Victoria Beckham Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Victoria Beckham Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE
Vivienne Westwood Fall-Winter 2020-2021 London by RUNWAY MAGAZINE

The most original and worth seeing collections, newest trends of London Fall-Winter 2020-2021 season can be seen here.