\ RUNWAY MAGAZINE ®: Pierre Cardin
Showing posts with label Pierre Cardin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pierre Cardin. Show all posts

March 8, 2020

Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020

Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020
Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain 2020



Mirror Mirror on Runway… or what Olivier Rousteing designs for Balmain in 2020. Balmain Fall-Winter 2020-2021 Paris Fashion Week Ready-to-Wear. Review by Eleonora de Gray, Editor-in-Chief of RUNWAY MAGAZINE.

Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain, started 2d year of his “understanding” of fashion. It is known fact that he didn’t go to the fashion school, and basically has been chosen to become new creative director for many reasons, including his close connection to Kim Kardashian and her boyfriend Kanye West, but not by his talen and creative skills as a designer.

This question was asked by many media personalities and media, and Olivier Rousteing every time tried to prove or improve his skills. So he choose special way – reproduction, or simply copy. Apparently he spent hours in library with his iPhone, taking photos of old Vogue magazines with forgotten looks of great designers like Thierry Mugler, Karl Lagerfeld or Pierre Cardin.

So his first year in fashion started from season and collection for Spring Summer 2019, which had exact copy some Thierry Mugler looks. And it was well noted by Thierry Mugler himself, media, fashion experts, and also by bloggers.

Thierry Mugler posted on his personal instagram:
Balmain Spring Summer 2019 – Thierry Mugler copy. Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Screenshots of Thierry Mugler instagram. Thierry Mugler himself well noted and commented on the copies made by Olivier Rousteing of his designs

Probably we all didn’t understand something. That is basically how Olivier Rousteing started his fashion school of design. Next “inspiration” became Karl Lagerfeld. He showed Balmain Cruise 2020 collection in his style with some Mexican touches and rock-n-roll.

Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
CHANEL Fall-Winter 2000-2001 Ready-to-Wear – Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Chanel Lookbook Spring Summer 2013 – photo Karl Lagerfeld
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection
Balmain Cruise 2020 Resort collection

Next designer Olivier Rousteing studied and tried to reproduce was Pierre Cardin. Spring Summer 2020 Balmain collection was all in Pierre Cardin style, although no tribute or dedication was mentioned to the press or blogger or anywhere visible on the press-release, instead the press-release announced that the presented designs are unique, which never existed before.

It is indeed is a good compilation of Pierre Cardin innovations with its profusion of optical effects and circular motifs. Although no dedication was indicated in press-release of the collection. Instead Olivier Rousteing stated in his interviews that “I call Balmain the guilty pleasure, because it’s not a brand that follows trends. It creates its own codes, and for me, it’s important to remain true to yourself. Sometimes people like it, and sometimes they don’t, but I always say I’d rather be disliked for who I am than liked for who I’m not.”

Apparently copied looks of Thierry Mugler, or redesigned looks of Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre Cardin were also appropriated by the designer with pretension that these codes were also created by him. It is indeed someone likes copies, and someone doesn’t. 

Who Balmain wants to fool? Kim Kardashian, or his new First “Mum”, who recently adopted him?

Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Balmain Spring Summer 2020 Ready-to-Wear
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
Pierre Cardin 1969-1975
This Fall-Winter 2020-2021 took a hit on old looks from 1990s of Hermes fashion house. Although as it is 2d year of Olivier Rousteing, so he reconstructed them very well, and with the caution. He also added some Italian touches, changed a little design of the fabrics and added the embroideries. Crafty! With meaning not related to craftsmanship.

The theme of the collection dedicated to astrological signs and horses of course (Hermes was there), and specifically to Scorpion. And it says it all.


Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 Ready-to-Wear. Photos: Daniele Oberrauch / Armando Grillo
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes 1990 -Trophées de Venise
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
Hermes scarf -CHEVAUX DE TRAIT
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right – Hermes 1990 silk scarf vs Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
From left to right Hermes 1990 -Grand Manege- design by Henri d’Origny vs Balmain menswear Fall Winter 2020 -2021
And last but not least – a leather corset with formed breasts – invention of Jean Paul Gaultier for the Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture season, and of course reproduced in almost exact way by Olivier Rousteing for Fall-Winter 2020-2021.

Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
Balmain Fall Winter 2020 -2021 vs Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2003 Haute Couture – leather corset
The worst is yet to come…. who’s going to be remastered / reproduced by Olivier Rousteing for next season? Who’d be the next great designer, who’s designs he’ll announce as his own? That is the question!

October 2, 2010

29 September. Fashion week. Devastee, Pierre Cardin and Guy Laroche fashion shows.

Fashion week in Paris heats up for fall. This season all catwalks are given to young fashion Asian designers. I see in official scheduler 12 of them. All are exiting different and extremely creative, bringing something to Paris what we haven't see for a long time.
I made a random choice of the Asian fashion designers what I'd like to see this season – known and absolutely new names. I like differences. I made my choice by my way of seeing elegance, colors and shapes. Of course there's always black white and red, and there's also the classic shapes of starlets, sexy secretary of fifties.
My first fashion show this season was the first show of little mark Devastee. Two French designers Ophelie Klere and Francois Alary, decided to go to Japan in their creations – push out the daisies in black and white movie tape of fashion. Theme of black and white movies comes in chic of peasants. Black and white floral print is an interesting twist on the classic spring look - definitely a departure from the bold boring colors.
“The gates were opened, the hinges were singing their loneliness” - that's the main theme of the collection. Floral sad Pierrot, who has nothing to do with Commedia dell Arte. An approach of could, and I felt like my heart is slowing down, my blood is freezing in this New Ice Age. Could summer of 2011 – an unusual combination of economic forces brought us together this morning, and don't let us to be lonely and don't freeze to death.







From this freezing world I came directly to colorful summer collection of Pierre Cardin. Pierre Cardin, the pioneer of Space Age fashion back in the 1960s, re-launched his catwalk career after a 10-year absence, at the Paris prêt-à-porter season. The 88-year-old designer proved he can still boldly go into the future, with a spring/summer 2011 collection which featured his 'n' hers, astronaut-style bodysuits in hot pink, rubber jewellery, UFO-bubble-hats, neon-bright, architectural mini-dresses and cyber-look crinolines in silk brocade. Still glorious, still talented, still surprising.
This is one of the amazing shows this fashion week for me. This show of 60th anniversary of fashion house. The symbol of great class and experiment and elegance Pierre Cardin told in his interview that he would never hand over his label to a younger designer, explaining that, "No, because I have five people sketching for me who are very young. And I think the young designers of today are less avant-garde than I am. I'm still in good shape, I work every day."
Cardin designed the collection to represent a four-season, and give us a tour of his own fashion galaxy. The man who made his mark on the 20th century with far-reaching, futuristic designs, once worn by The Beatles and the Rolling Stones, reclaimed his auditorium in order to prove his "name" is still a viable force in the 21st century: something already demonstrated by the fact Lady Gaga recently wore one of his metallic, chain-mail creations.
The original fashion Trekkie, Pierre Cardin, began the show with his and her futuristic jumpsuits in bright fuchsia, cobalt blue, metallic and brown. Next, came little, mini cocktail dresses in futuristic and avant-garde colors. It reminds me spirit of avant-garde and futuristic painters, architectonic designers and poets. In his collections was everything in great collaboration – geometric forms and poetic elegance mixed in styles of 20th and 50th. Casual and cocktail dresses, futuristic rain coats and bridal gowns showed great specter of Pierre Cardin vision and creativity in mixture of different styles epochs, profound light trough of 100 years of our history, culture, dreams about universe and still being under sign “down to Earth”.
Personally I adore his hats and futuristic silhouettes what came from classy fifties, which gives amazing elegance of creative and modern woman.





































After Pierre Cardin I was heading to Guy Laroche fashion show. Different world – warm, soft made by muted colors made me feel.... well like real French lady type of Catherine Deneuve and almost saying something like “lamour toujours”. Rephrase: born to be blond or not to be – there's no matter, Marcel Marongiu, the designer of Guy Laroche, will make you feel like real blond.
The military collection of Marcel Marongiu’s was inspired by strength of modern woman who likes her independence and in the same time soft and unresisting attraction. Classy French blond with pistol who can ones and for all damage poor men hearts.
Simple style and yet sophisticated look is presentation of feminine tailored basics – that is real French couture. The show itself seemed to almost mimic the changing of the seasons. The collection started out in cool neutrals – shades of taupe, dusty pink, gray, and navy dominated the first third of the show, a reminder of the slow transition from winter to spring. A pop of orange followed in a matching printed silk chiffon top and pants, as well as in a belted dress whose mini skirt had a daring slit up the side, marking the collection’s full embrace of spring in royal blue, lemon yellow, and crisp white. Floor-length yellow printed dresses and an equally ethereal purple printed chiffon mini dress are “Le Bouquet Finale” of the collection.
Indeed I enjoyed the show and soft vision for the business woman made with class and tailors attention.